Had visited Port Blair in 1992 during my employment on ship as a " Marine Engineer " and over the decades since childhood having travelled across 92 Country's globally and entire India decided to revisit Andaman Island's akin to a Anthropologist/Historian rather than a sailor - tourist.
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| Arrival at " Citi Heart" Hotel in Port Blair. After years travelled in a Ambassador. |
The Andaman and Nicobar Island's occupy a total area of 8,249 Sq Km and consists of 572 islands of which only 38 are permanently inhabited. The original tribes living on the Andaman and Nicobar Island's with now a few almost facing extinction are classified into two groups belonging to two different races. The tribes living on Andaman group of Island's are 1) Andamanese 2) Jarawa's 3) Onges and 4) Sentinelese who come under the Negrito race.The tribes living on Nicobar group of Islands are 1) Nicobarese and 2) Shompens who come under the Mongoloid race. On Friday 4 January 1991 woman Anthropologist Ms Madhumala.Chattopadhyay, part of a 13 member exploratory team of anthropologist's was the first woman and human to make peaceful personal contact with the Sentinelese of North Sentinel Island . Tourism is allowed only on the Andaman group of Island's which has a large number of Indian settlers from the mainland consisting mostly of Bengalis and Tamilians. Entry into the "Premitive Tribal" area's by tourists/locals is strictly prohibited or regulated by the Government and tourists/locals are not permitted to photograph or try to intermingle with the primitive tribals. On Wednesday(4/10/2023) booked a "Mumbai-Port Blair" online air -ticket with "Indigo Airlines"costing Rs 12,994 for departure from Mumbai on Tuesday(17/10/2023).
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| View of " CELLULAR JAIL" in Port Blair from the topmost point of the jail, the " Watchtower". WIKIPEDIA :- The construction of the prison started in 1896 and was completed in 1906. The original building was a puce-coloured brick building. The bricks used to build the building were brought from Burma.The building had seven wings, at the center of which a tower served as the intersection and was used by guards to keep watch on the inmates.The wings radiated from the tower in straight lines, much like the spokes of a bicycle.Each of the seven wings had three stories upon completion. There were no dormitories and a total of 696 cells. Each cell was 4.5 by 2.7 metres (14.8 ft × 8.9 ft) in size with a ventilator located at a height of 3 metres (9.8 ft).The name, "cellular jail", derived from the solitary cells which prevented any prisoner from communicating with any other. Also, the spokes were so designed such that the face of a cell in a spoke saw the back of cells in another spoke. This way, communication between prisoners was impossible. They were all in solitary confinement. The locks of the prison cells were designed in such a way that the inmate would never be able to reach the latch of the lock. The prison guards would lock up the inmates and throw the key of the lock inside the jail. The inmate would try to put his hand out and try to unlock the door but would never be able to do so as his hand would never reach the lock.Escaping alive from this prison was impossible as even if a prisoner escaped crossing the ocean by swimming was impossible and hence the Hindi name "KALA PANI" for the "CELLULAR JAIL". |
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| Inside one wing of the 3 Storey " CELLULAR JAIL " |
Monday (16/10/2023)Departure Mumbai :- Left my house in Old Prabhadevi Road early and bizarrely travel misfortune struck me at the start of this discover Andaman's solo travel.My old " Maruti Omni" taxi developed a puncture on the Bandra flyover and had to changeover to a autorickshaw finally reaching " Chatrapati Shivaji Terminal T 2 " at 2115 hrs. Checked in to the airport,collected boarding pass and after security check headed to " Gate No 42 A" .Later got the news of delay in departure of " Flight 6E6955" as well as change in boarding gate and hence had to walk a short distance to " Gate No 45A".Finally at 0055 boarded the plane and made myself comfortable on seat " 16 F ".Takeoff was at 0115 hrs ,a delay of 1 hr.Landed in Chennai at 0245 hrs and made my way towards the domestic transfer at Chennai Airport.After the normally security check was at " Gate 12" to board " 6E 6213" to Port Blair.The one hour delay in Mumbai fortunately didn't affect my transit flight to Port Blair.Takeoff from Chennai was punctual at 0455 hrs, a houseful planeload of passengers in comparison to the half full complement of passengers on Mumbai to Chennai route.Reached Port Blair at 0650 hrs,and got a amazing view of the island's as we touched down at Veer Savarkar International airport in Port Blair.Boarded a Ambassador taxi , once common upto 1990's and now a vintage relic of a different era of the Indian automobile sector.
Was charged Rs 250 for the drop off at " CITI HEART" my hotel situated in Babu Lane, of Aberdeen Bazaar in the heart of Port Blair city in South Andaman.Mr Prashant.Haldar , the young manager allotted me " Room N0 310" on the second floor, a independent single room which had seen better days .
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| " Andaman in Olden Days" A gallery exhibit on Old records of " Cellular Jail " |
I got it commissioned for my personal use as there was no water on arrival which shocked me but otherwise ideal for a Solo bachelor traveller .After a cold water bath ventured out of the hotel and breakfast was excellent wada/ Cutney/ Sada Dosa with tea at the roadside dabba next to " Citi Heart" Hotel. Ferry tickets can be booked on-line and only 2-days in advance to avoid hoarding of tickets as they sell very fast being the cheapest mode of transport to islands within the Andaman and Nicobar Archipalego. After breakfast boarded a autorickshaw and headed to Phoenix Bay Government jetty and booked a ferry ticket for Swaraj Dweep( Havelock Island) costing Rs 350 .Besides being cheap, travel by the common Government ferry gives a tourist the feel of common life among the Andaman native settlers. After booking the ferry ticket told the autorickshaw driver to take me back to my hotel where I collected my " Snorkel Gear" and headed to " Marina Park" for the local ferry to Ross and North Bay Island.On inquiry was told that snorkeling would be for only a hour under a " Snorkel Guide" costing Rs 1000 and since I was late as well as tired after a sleepless travel by air and hence decided to do the same tomorrow.Walked the long uphill distance from Marina Park to " CELLULAR JAIL" at Atlanta point and joined a small guided tour brushing up my own history knowledge of the Indian Independence movement besides the luxury of visiting sites studied in text books during my school years.A very well maintained museum within the "Cellular Jail" complex consisting of different sections. Visited the 3 storey prison building and the cell at the extreme end of the 3rd floor in which Veer.Damodar.Savarkar was kept prisoner.After Sunset there is a "Light and Sound" show on the grounds of the "Cellular Jail".After the tour of "Cellular Jail" walked the long 1.4 Km distance from " Cellular Jail" to " Citi Heart" hotel situated in Babu Lane locality of Aberdeen Bazaar , my home away from home in Port Blair.Came across landmark multipurpose Netaji Stadium that holds football and cricket matches as also the Obelisk shaped historical Aberdeen Clock tower.Finally reached my cozy single room/ Attached bathe hotel room situated in the main bustling city centre of Aberdeen having a giant statue of Mahatma Gandhi ( Gandhi Chowk) on the main road junction.
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| Landmark " ABERDEEN CLOCK TOWER" built in 1921-22 in Aberdeen Bazaar of Port Blair.The tower has a height of 46 ft and has four clocks, one on each face of the tower. Built in memory of Indian and British soldiers who fought during World War-1. |
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| Jama Masjid Mosque at Aberdeen Bazaar. |
Lunch was " Mutton Biryani" at " Hotel Milan Family Restaurant" in Aberdeen Bazaar locality, excellent.After lunch walked towards the main " ST Bus terminus" at Mohanpura in Aberdeen in search of a travel agency but just couldn't spot any .Taxi driver's told me that only block booking of tourist vehicles was possible but then although I could afford it didn't like wasting money on hiring a entire vehicle and having done " Tour homework" decided to visit " Monika Tours".
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| On my first day met my non- human friend " Peter", the jet black cat owned by vegetable shop owner M.Boominathan of " Rathnam Market" in Aberdeen Bazaar. Absolutely docile,replica of a pedigree " BOMBAY CAT". |
Hired a autorickshaw who took me to the address but seems they had closed their business as in life nothing is permanent and as a professional player on the "Stock Markets" understand the same.Andaman Island's is strictly for "GROUP TOURS"," COUPLES" or " FAMILIES" with the odd few " SOLO" adventurers like yours truly either extremely rich to afford private single bookings/Diving sites or dare devil adventurers who travel by public transport ,gambling on experience and " Gamblers Intuition".Ahoy !The rickshaw driver advised me to travel by " ST Bus" and on arrival at Aberdeen visited the excellent A/C waiting lounge of the " ST Bus Terminus " at Mohanpura. Booked return tickets for Baratang by air- condition bus costing a total of Rs 200.Sunset at 1700 hrs is very early in Port Blair and in the night had a walk along Aberdeen vicinity which resembled Mumbai in traffic congestion and population.Dinner was at the open air Street food hawkers stalls consisting of 2 Punjabi samosas with lime juice .A excellent night's sleep as I had not slept for 24 hrs after leaving home in Mumbai and thankfully no mosquitoes in my cozy cool hotel .
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| " Veer Savarkar Park" opposite Cellular Jail. |
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| Snorkelling off the beach in North Bay Island of Andamans. My personal advice is that this "SNORKELING SITE" next to the tourist beach is basically for first time beginners or children who have never ever snorkeled before and seen live swimming fish under the water.Also if you want "Braggers Rights Underwater photography" like me as shown in this photo then this locale is good for snorkeling.The most prominent fish species here is the "Serjeant Major", excellent for those beautiful photo shoot's akin to being in a "Underwater Film Set".If a professional or having done snorkeling before at other sites then this particular mass snorkeling tourism site in North Bay island is not recommended . This is my personal opinion having snorkeled and dived in a few of the World's best sites, nothing else.If you really want to experience snorkeling in Andaman's then hire a private speedboat and go deep far away from shore as i had done in the Maldives. |
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| " Millennium clock " in " Azad- Hind Sarovar Park " on a hill slope opposite Marina Park. |
Wednesday(18/10/2023):- Day break was at 0430 hrs and at 0600 hrs ventured onto the street outside " Citi Heart" Hotel and breakfast at the street side Tamilian origin Cafe was 3 tiny cups of tea+ 4 Medhu Wada's + 1 Dal wada with the total bill amounting to only Rs 80.I could skip lunch with this lavish breakfast that had a houseful crowd of local's akin to the " Wada/ Pav stalls" back home in Mumbai.After breakfast got into " Swim safari gear" and headed out of the hotel with my destination being " Marina Park".Passed alongside the landmark clock tower which struck at 0700 hrs, in fine working condition.Walked downhill past Netaji Stadium and the swimming pool coming across " Azad - Hind Sarovar Park" which has a large Millennium clock on the meadow of the park situated on the foot of the small hill.Further ahead along the road was the entrance to " Rajiv Gandhi Water Sports Complex(Marina Park) ".Was the first tourist to enter " Marina Park" and met Mr Arun ,a local travel agent requesting him to grant me permission to do the " SEA WALK" which had a maximum age restriction of 55 years which could be extended to 60 years.Was told that regulations regarding age restrictions of 60 years were strict akin to common " Job Retirement Age" in India irrespective of a swimmer being fit as I definitely was but then rules are rules.I even told them i was willing to sign a indemnity clause regarding responsibility of the "Sea Walk".No was the reply. Ahoy !
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| Aberdeen Jetty at Marina Park. Boarding Ferry to North Bay , Ross and Viper Island's for tourists. |
Finally decided to do " Guided Snorkeling " in North Bay Island and the total cost of ferry service to Ross( NSCB) Island and North Bay Island along with snorkeling amounted to Rs 1874, with the snorkeling itself costing Rs 1000.Atrociously expensive or seems inflation was the cause of this exorbitant price and thanks to my present business post salaried retirement could keep in touch with rising Inflation .Was the first tourist of the day to get my name registered with " Maheshwari Ferry " for the short distance sailing to " Ross( Netaji Subhash Bose Dweep) Island" and " North Bay Island " for the water sport of " Snorkeling".
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| North Bay Island. A Uninhabited island meant only for " Water Sports " during daylight hours.At night only Forrest guards patrol this island.This is the view of the Water sports shacks and restaurants from our approaching Ferry.The " LIGHTHOUSE" is the prominent landmark of this uninhabited island . A " Birds - Eye view" of this Iconic lighthouse and a section of North Bay Island is featured on the Rs 20 Note of the Indian currency. |
Whiled away my time in the beautiful well maintained Marina garden and at 0900 hrs along with the large crowd of tourists assembled outside " Marine D' Cafe" waiting for a member of the ferry staff to escort us to the Ferry.We finally boarded the ferry " Maheshwari" and it got filled to capacity.
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| " SNORKELING " off the beach of North Bay Island. |
The bottom enclosed deck was air-conditioned while the upper deck was open-air.Made my way to the Upper Deck and experienced one of the slowest cruise of my lifetime of sea employment as well as leisure travel on boats.I could have rowed faster with paddles to North Bay Island than " M.V.Maheshwari" with her engines.Finally at 1010 hrs after a torturous slow sailing our ferry touched the floating pontoon gangway of North Bay Island.On arriving ashore was greeted by staff responsible for conducting the water sports and hence all tourists dispersed and reported to their respective water sports guides.As for me was asked if filming of snorkeling was required, the same costing Rs 500.Agreed for the same and deposited my belongings in the locker at a rental of Rs 70.Having done some wonderful snorkeling in Lakshadweep Island's presumed we would be taken on a boat to a floating pontoon away from shore for snorkeling in the vicinity of the pontoon.Was aghast when told to wear a life jacket and enter the water from the rocky beach of the commercial water sports camping site.My guide accompanied me along with a lifebuoy and we snorkeled away from the beach.Visibility was tolerable but the aquatic life was a " No - Show" with the only abundant fish species being the beautiful small " Serjeant Major" fish.Didn't spot a single " Grouper species" nor the hilarious " Clown Fish" while the coral reef below was totally dead.We did venture into deep waters but not a sign of any large fish , a total disappointment .
After the normal filming made our way back to shore and thankfully the shoal of " Serjeant Major" fish species provided a colourful short video akin to a film shoot.
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| A tiny section of North Bay Island dedicated to water sports .souvenir and eatery shacks. |
There were a few shack restaurants on this small " Aquatic sports beach" along with souvenir shops for tourists.The lunch of " Fish Biryani" at " North Bay Restro" salvaged my lousy atrociously expensive snorkeling venture.Excellent fish biryani and I was their " Bonny( First) " lunch customer of the day.The restaurant steward explained me a little about the topography of this uninhabited island which is gradually sinking as the sea water level increases over the decades.Seems there are lots of snakes on the island.After lunch I met one of the staff members conducting water sports on this tiny island and explained him the pathetic location of the snorkeling site as well as lack of different fish species in the designated locale.His explanation was that the 2004 Tsunami created underwater havoc destroying the fish ecosystem near the island.As for me felt this was a total commercial enterprise with no regard to quality of dive or Snorkel locale for fish sighting.I thanked my " Bad Luck" for being overage and hence not permitted for doing the " UNDERWATER SEA WALK" as it would have been a total write-off of Rs 3500 akin to betting on a losing horse or mistiming a buy or sell in a Stock. Ahoy ! My criticism of " North Bay Island" snorkeling could be harsh because I snorkeled in some of the best sites in the Maldives and Lakshadweep Island's besides learning Scuba Diving at the famous "Liberty Ship Wreck" site at Tulamben in Bali. Hence I presume my expectations of fish species sighting at North Bay Island was high and in hindsight should say " North Bay Island" should be strictly for beginner aquatic sports enthusiasts as it is conducted in the most copybook style safe manner with life jackets and personal escort swim guards.
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| On Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Island( Ross Island).Ross Island, now known officially as Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island, was the capital of most of the Andaman Islands from 1858 until an earthquake in 1941. Ross Island was also the base for the British Administrator of the penal colony in Port Blair. In 1941, the Japanese converted the site into a prisoner-of-war camp and built war installations, remnants like the bunkers which can still be seen. It now lies deserted, and the few signs of its colonial glory, such as the Chief Commissioner's house and the Presbyterian church, are dilapidated and overgrown with trees. Eerily resembles the Angkor Vat temple ruins in Cambodia with giant overgrown tree roots engulfing ruins of buildings by its roots. Grotesquely beautiful and a big tourist attraction in Port Blair. The area is now under the control of the Indian Navy named "I.N.S Jarawa " which was commissioned in 1964 and named after the primitive Jarawa tribe of Andaman islands. |
Finally at 1330 hrs boarded our ferry " Maheshwari" and this time the sailing to " Ross Island" was a bit faster.Bizzarely there was a brief spell of freak rainfall in the form of a mild drizzle.
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| Ruins of Presbyterian church on Ross Island. Walls are overrun by trees. |
At approximately 1400 hrs berthed alongside Ross Island wharf and we were allotted a time frame of one and a half hour to sightsee the ruins of Ross Island.
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| A World War II Japanese Bunker at entrance to Ross Island from Ferry Jetty. |
At entrance of Ross Island Jetty is a " Japanese Bunker" and on entering the mainland tourists are greeted with sightings of deer and peacocks that reside on this island akin to pet animals accustomed to human presence and occasional feeding.There is a circular road along the circumference of this tiny island with signboard explaining the history of the island as well as various edifice ruins on this island.Barring the view of the sea if a person was put blindfolded onto one of the building ruins of this island wouldn't be surprised once his blindfolds were removed if he mistook himself to be at a Angkor Vat ruin in distant Cambodia rather than Andaman Island's in India.
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| British Troop Barracks on Ross Island. |
Ross Island( Netaji Subhash Bose Dweep) Island building ruins eerily replicate the ruins of Angkor Vat in Cambodia except for the fact that these are normal buildings having a solitary church and not temple ruins as in Angkor Vat in Cambodia.. I took the left road( Port side) for the grand self - exploratory tour of the island and came across the ruins of the " Bakery", " Swimming Pool" all engulfed by the roots of gigantic trees.Walked to the end of the island towards the Naval quarters and returned back.At 1530 hrs boarded " M.V.Maheshwari " and headed back to " Rajiv Gandhi Water sports complex (Marina Bay).I was now familiar with my surroundings, the hardcore solo traveller.On arriving at my hotel had a bathe and relaxed.Dinner was "Banana Fritters" at " Hotel Thangaraj" , a street food restaurant near Gandhi Statue opposite Mohanpura S.T bus terminus at Aberdeen.After dinner dessert was "Fruit Ice cream" at " Sagar Cool Bar" specializing in ice creams, Falooda's and fruit salads .Excellent and moderately priced.
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| Boarding " M.V.Katchal" at Phoenix Bay for the 2 1/2 Hrs voyage from Port Blair to Havelock Island.I was one of the first passengers to board the ship and hence seems like I am entering a private ship as no other passengers are visible.The ship was " HOUSEFULL" and a excellent short voyage in comforts of seating accommodation and excellent air-conditioning. |
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| Entrance to Radhanagar Beach, the 7th most popular beach in the World in 2023 |
Thursday(19/10/2023) Departure Port Blair to Havelock Island :- Pleasant weather in Aberdeen in Port Blair with mild rainfall at night.After my usual 4 hrs sleep was down onto the street for my cup of " Kadak chai/ Medhu Wada" at the familiar street stall next door to my hotel.Internet service is excellent and using the hotel's " B.S.N.L WiFi " was surprised to know it was as good as my "Jio Network" which is a recent entry into Port Blair." BSNL" were the pioneer telecommunication company in Andamans and now with entry of " Reliance Jio" a subscriber is spoiled for choice regarding Internet network subscription
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| On the World's 7th most popular beach. White sand like snow powder makes Radhanagar Beach the destination in India for a sea dip. |
.Just a year ago entire Andaman and Nicobar island had very weak unreliable telecommunications and Internet system with mainland India and all this is now history in 2023.Walked towards the " Clock Tower " road of Aberdeen and taking a left turn came across the splendid " Jama Masjid" mosque of Port Blair.Entered a restaurant and had my normal breakfast of " Bread/ Omelet ".Checked out of the hotel at 0800 hrs and on my way towards the Phoenix Bay ship jetty stopped at " Sagar Cool bar" for my favourite " Fruit Icecream" .Walking towards Gandhi Statue(Gandhi Chowk) finally took the Mohanpura Market road leading towards the Phoenix Bay Port.It was a long walk finally coming to a dead end at the " Marine Dockyard" workshop.From Marine Dockyard walked left which was a short distance to the Ferry terminal.I was very early and on entering the spacious " Ticket booking Hall" inquired about ticket bookings from Havelock to Port Blair for Sunday(22/10/2023) and was told advance bookings for Govt ferries is done only two days in advance .Excellent Government ferry ticketing office as also the ST Bus ticketing office in Mohanpura.At 1130 passed through the Port security check similar to air travel but less cumbersome.Boarded the gangway of " M.V Katchal" bringing back memories of sea sailing years and this coastal ship was also manned by " S.C.I( Shipping Corporation of India) " staff, my last company before I permanently retired from sea sailing employment.Was allotted the 53 complement A/C seating compartment , the A/C in excellent working condition.Departure was prompt at 1200 hrs and the ship had a excellent speed of 12.5 Knots.Reached Havelock Jetty at 1430 hrs and was welcomed by freak heavy rain that got me partially drenched.
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| Sunset at Radhanagar Beach.As it was a cloudy evening the Sunset was not distinctly visible Radhanagar Beach is famous for its beautiful Sunsets.Notice the purity and cleanliness of the beach in the reflection on the beach surface akin to a mirror. |
Bizarrely the rain stopped after sometime as it seems this is typical Havelock weather .Two locals guided me regarding the public bus service whose frequency was once every hour as well as the location of the ticket booking counter of the Government ferry.
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| " Harmony Resort and Restaurant " My residence on Havelock island. Just 5 minutes walking distance from World famous Radhanagar Beach. Akin to a Farmhouse which it was before " Beach Tourism" made locals convert their farmhouses to resorts. |
Lunch was excellent " Butter chicken/ Chapati " at " Taste of Havelock" restaurant situated on the main road outside the ferry ticket booking office.Enjoying my lavish lunch also realizing I had missed my bus with rickshaw fare being only Rs 400 to " Harmony Resort and Restaurant " at Radhanagar Beach.Scooters and bikes were available on hire at Rs 400- Rs 500/ day , definitely cheaper then paying Rs 400 for a single way autorickshaw ride but having survived 4 motorcycle accidents decided it was not worth the risk riding on unfamiliar roads. With a collapse in my Stock market portfolio due to " Israel- Hamas" war decided not to be penny wise and pound foolish and hence hired a autorickshaw and marveled at the long 11 kms rickshaw ride through dense monsoon forests to " Harmony Resort and Restaurant " at Radhanagar Beach.
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| Areca nut( Supari,) and coconut trees dominate the plantations on Havelock Island. |
On arrival was greeted by Mr Kaushik.Shil, the owners son and checked into my spacious double bed room actually meant for two people ,the disadvantage of " SOLO" travel and bachelor hood. Quickly walked the short 5 minutes distance to " RADHANAGAR BEACH", voted the World's 7th best beach in 2023.No hype as I have swum and seen all the best beaches in India including Lakshadweep beaches but RADHANAGAR is definitely different.Spotless white sand and no dirt even under microscopic observation.Beach closes at 1700 hrs and by 1730 hrs it was pitch dark.Walked the short distance back to my resort and requested Mr Kaushik.Shil to commission the T.V and spent the night watching the " India- Bangladesh" World cup.Cool and pleasant weather.
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| Starting point of " Radhanagar - Elephant Beach " Jungle trek at Radhanagar Trek reporting point.The trek starts at 0800 hrs and guides are available. Every trekker and guide entering the Jungle is registered at this point. |
Friday(20/10/2023):- Excellent spacious hotel room but didn't get my normal 4 hrs sleep.In the morning at approximately 0400 hrs ventured out of the room onto the hotel compound.Came across a cute tiny kitten ,absolutely docile and lost.Hope it survives to adulthood as there are also many dogs in the vicinity. Survival of the fittest is nature's natural law.Later in the morning was told this tiny kitten was the resorts pet, beautiful and cute.Yesterday was a rainy day and today morning at 0630 hrs it was absolutely bright hot sunshine.
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| Mr Sujoy.Mondal my guide for 2.5 Km " Radhanagar- Elephant Beach " trek on Havelock Island. |
Akin to European weather seems during the month of October the weather in Havelock changes in minutes within a single day.Resort reminds me of our ancestral farmhouses in Mangalore and here in Radhanagar Beach due to its fame of being the 7th best beach in the World there are many " Resorts" in the vicinity that thanks to tourism should be doing good business. There are two 5-star hotels at Radhanagar 1)Taj Group Hotels have their "Taj Exotica Resort & Spa" 5-star hotel " hotel in near proximity to Radhanagar Beach and 2) Barefeet Resort famous for once owning "Rajan, the swimming Elephant".My free complimentary breakfast at 0700 hrs was " Omelet/ bread" with tea served by young resort employee Akhilesh also reminding him to tell owner Kaushik to book my ferry ticket to Port Blair.At 0725 hrs boarded the local ST Bus with my destination being " Radhanagar/ Elephant Beach" trek start point.Jungles and forests with its wildlife never make me bored and had planned this trek hoping my physical fitness would see me through this jungle trek.Was surprised to know that treks from Radhanagar to Elephant Beach was a organized tourist business with a rooster being maintained for keeping a track of the guide accompanying a tourist on a fixed charge of Rs 500/ guide. As it had been raining daily in Havelock was told that the 2.5 Km trek was dangerous as most of the jungle pathway was now soft mud instead of firm pathways.Was told to do the trek barefoot and the gambler in me predicted the odds of me successfully completing this trek to be" half money On Odds" .My guide was Mr Sujoy.Mondal and at 0800 hrs we started our 2.5 kms treacherous forest trek to Elephant beach.
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| Notice that I am doing the 2.5 Km trek barefoot, a first in my lifetime of trekking .Due to rain the entire forest topsoil was soft and slippery akin to being on skates on ice.My feet sank into ankle deep mud and I was bitten by leeches.Fell twice but thanks to my athleticism broke my fall and was quickly on my feet.Without guide Sujoy.Mondal and the help of my trekking sticks I would have not completed this trek.Memory of lifetime. |
We were accompanied by " Snorkelling Guide" Mr Rafiq.Sayed and were the first trekkers on the way to Elephant Beach.Treacherous was not the word for this monsoon trek as the entire pathway was slippery and in certain parts my ankles sunk in the soft muck akin to sinking sand.
My two hiking sticks saved my day and I did slip and fall but thanks to my athleticism was quickly back on my bare feet .
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| From Dense forest into the Mangrove forest. This area was badly damaged during 2004 Tsunami as can be seen by the uprooted tree stumps. |
So far so good .Got to know my trek and snorkeling guide who were both locals of Havelock Island with Rafiq.Sayed's ancestor being a freedom fighter who was imprisoned in " Cellular Jail".Seeing my "Malaysia Sepang Moto GP2007" cap Rafiq.Sayed told me he was a " Moto GP " fan with Valentino Rossi being his " Moto GP " hero.Sujoy.Mondal's family owned farm land but seems after the development of tourism on Havelock island agriculture has taken a back seat with majority of locals involved in some sector of the Island's tourism industry.He explained me the jungle topography and showed me one of the most valuable tree's of the Andamans, the " Padauk tree" which is the State tree of Andaman and Nicobar Island's.Photographed this gigantic tree and thanks to this trek got a opportunity to see this tree. A young French tourist passed us alongside and had a brief conversation with him surprised that he travelled across India for 3 long years.Majority of the population of Andamans are of Bengali origin with Tamilians and other communities forming the rest of the population with Hindi being the main spoken language.After the treacherous jungle mud walk we finally arrived at sea level onto the mangrove forests that was being regenerated after devastation caused by the 2004 Tsunami.Came across numerous fallen tree carcasses, a calamity of the 2004 Tsunami.Finally at 0915 reached Elephant Beach the first tourist arriving by the " Land Route" as normally majority of tourists arrive by boats from Havelock Jetty. Elephant beach got its name from Elephants that used to roam in the vicinity of the beach decades ago when elephants were used for timber logging on Havelock Island.
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| A wooden bridge on the jungle trek to Elephant Beach. |
In fact Andaman Islands was World famous for its "SWIMMING ELEPHANTS' that swam from one island to the other for logging forest wood with the guidance of their human mahouts. In the year 2000 logging on Andaman Islands was banned by the Supreme Court to protect its biodiversity and hence approximately 200 elephants were jobless with some of them dying within a year or two and finally all transported back to the mainland in India."Rajan", a tusker was the lone "SWIMMING ELEPHANT" left behind on Andamans and he became a photograph celebrity finally being purchased by "Barefoot Resort", walking distance from "Harmony resort and restaurant" , my residence in Radhanagar."Rajan" earned his fodder swimming on Havelock island beaches while being filmed by photographers and documentary film makers."Rajan" was a superhit recovering his entire purchase cost by the year 2014 and ended his swimming career in March 2014 swimming with the Crown Prince of Dubai.He spent the next two years in retirement dying at the approximate age of 66 years in 2016 while grazing in the jungle in Havelock. Normally during the dry season this trek takes about half an hour for seasoned trekkers but considering today's soil condition due to rains should say we were quick in completing the trek in one hour fifteen minutes.
Elephant Beach has the best water sports on Havelock island and very systematically organized .
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| At Elephant Beach early morning at 0915 hrs after 2.5 Km trek from Radhanagar much before majority of tourist crowd arrive by boats at approximately 1000 hrs. Floating pontoon gangway for alighting and boarding boats. |
I was the first " Snorkeler" of the day and charges were Rs 1800 which included photography.
Locker charges was Rs 100 and honestly Andaman Island's is a luxury destination for the average tourists in India.
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| After snorkeling the return 2.5 Km trek from Elephant Beach to Radhanagar. Notice the soil topography. Total did a 5 Km trek in these treacherous soil conditions. Memory of a lifetime. |
Akin to the Lakshadweep island beaches and North Bay Island , Elephant Beach didn't have a permanent jetty for boat docking but a floating pontoon.Snorkel Guide Rafiq.Sayed took me into the water from the beach and was happy to see a variety of different fish species as we gradually swam away from shore into the deep.Good luck was also the fact that being the " Bonny( First)" snorkeler's of the day in the vicinity the fish were not disturbed and spotted a parrot fish munching at the live coral.Spotted groupers and clarity of water was better than North Bay Island.But I feel Lakshadweep Island's had cheaper and better snorkeling sites for the average budget tourist snorkeler.My opinion is that Andaman's is excellent for the high spending diver or snorkeler as some of the best dive dites are in Andamans but definitely not available at common tourist rates.Anyhow I was extremely satisfied with this Elephant Island snorkeling and on returning ashore was surprised to see the entire water sports beach area filled with tourists.Seems during the peak tourist season from November to February there would be no space to stand on Elephant Beach.Our return journey hike after crossing the mangrove forest was through a slightly different route but to me both routes seemed the same as far as the pathways was concerned, slippery mines where a misstep could lead to serious injury.MotoGp riders Casey.Stoner and Valentino Rossi winner and runner-up of 2007 Sepang MotoGP would think twice before venturing onto this trek,no exaggeratoion.Imagine the locals including guide Sujoy who trekked this path daily akin to riding a motorcycle on the worst pot holed roads in Mumbai.Finally at 1215 hrs reached the end of our treacherous trek where for the first time in my life had walked barefoot for a entire trek.Age is just a numerical number and you are never ever too old or young to try anything new or start new ventures.Boarded the local ST Bus and was at home away from home absolutely satisfied of my days extreme adventure sports.
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| A sumptuous lunch after "Radhanagar- Elephant Beach " trek at " Harmony Resort and Restaurant " |
Lunch was ," Bengali Fish curry/ rice/ Dal/ Vegetables" in Harmony Resort and Restaurant served by resort employee Akhilesh.Owner Mr Kaushik. Shil had booked my ferry ticket to Port Blair costing Rs 650.Since he had a laptop requested him to book my air ticket to Mumbai which was not possible on my phone .He did the same and purchased my return ticket to Mumbai for Tuesday(31/10/2023) costing Rs 13,329.Post Covid-19 ,both, regional as well as International flight fares have increased let alone the cost of living for the average tourist. Relaxed in my room and later in the evening strolled the entire length of Radhanagar beack with one West end of the beach on leading to the entrance of 5- Star "Taj Exotica resort & Spa" and the other extreme East end of the beach through the dense reserve forest leading to 5-Star "Barefoot Resort".As it was cloudy weather , Sunset was not visible .Andamans holidays would be my longest holiday in a Indian state or region barring my parents ancestral hometown villages of Mangalore in State of Karnataka.
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| Believe it or not.All alone on the 7th most popular beach in the World at 0630 hrs. Indescribable feeling on Radhanagar Beach Akin to owning this piece of the beach. |
Saturday(21/10/2023)Havelock Island :- An excellent normal 4 hrs sleep and at 0630 hrs went to Radhanagar Beach that was deserted with just a few tourists in the sea.Unbelievable that after 1000 hrs this entire stretch of beach would be crowded with sea bathers and tourists strolling along the beach.Just had a dip as swimming is not possible due to strong waves unless a swimmer ventures deep into the open sea away from the beach.
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| Glimpse of Radhanagar Beach and Reserve Forest behind the beach at 0630 hrs. After 1000 hrs the tourist crowd arrives and at Sunset in evening the beach is packed with tourists. |
After the dip walked along the main Radhanagar road in total isolation to " Harmony Resort and restaurant" just a 5 minutes walk from the World's 7th most popular beach.Got dressed and after my normal breakfast of " Omelet/ Toast" was hoping the ST Bus would arrive in time .Took a stroll towards the entrance of " Bare Feet" Resort, the 5- Star resort synonymous with the world wide fame of late " Rajan",the last swimming elephant of Andaman and Nicobar Islands.Returned back to "Harmony resort and Restaurant" situated in prime Radhanagar Beach vicinity with two 5- Star hotels within walking distance from the resort.Looks can be deceptive and the owner Mr Shil whom I mistook to be the manager resided in the resort with his family, a former farmhouse converted into a resort.The resort cats were too cute and friendly and a pair of them postured for a " Cat Walk" photo along with me, akin to a studio film shoot.
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| Kalapathar beach on the West side of Havelock Island. |
Finally boarded the bus at 0845 hrs and at a ticket cost of Rs 14 headed to Govind Nagar market.It was a bright sunny morning when I had left Radhanagar and arrived at Govind Nagar market.
On alighting the bus was greeted by loud Bengali music playing over loudspeakers.It was " Durga Puja " celebrations and hence the music .
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| Souvenir and eatery shops alongside road at Kalapathar Beach. |
After a wait of approximately 15 minutes boarded the bus to Kalapathar beach, which lies on the South East coast of Havelock Island and famed for its Sunrise.The bus ticket cost was Rs 14.Observed numerous resorts along the route and wondered if all these resorts were in profits as there definitely seemed to be a glut of small hotels, resorts and luxury hotels on Andaman Island's.The final leg of the journey was through the coastal road of Kalapathar beach that was a beautiful sight.Finally at 0940 hrs arrived at Kalapthar Beach which was deserted except for a few tourists swimming in the sea with the quality of sand being as good as Radhanagar Beach. Kalapathar(Black Stone in Hindi) got its name from the black stone rocks that form a coastal boundary of a section of this beach. is known as the " Sunrise Beach" akin to Radhanagar Beach called the " Sunset Beach" as it lies on the West coast of Havelock Island. It was blistering hot and after a few photo shoots was back at Kalapathar bus stand to board the bus to Govindnagar Market.Had to wait for almost half an hour for the bus which was crowded giving me a feel of local public transport conditions.I presume majority of the population in Swaraj Dweep( Havelock) use 2 wheelers for transport as the public bus service is unreliable in timings and has very bus's on route.Bizarrely from bright hot sunshine at Kalapathar beach on arrival at Govinnagar Market it started raining heavily.On alighting at Govindnagar Market took shelter under the shade of a shop and within a few minutes it stopped raining.Unbelievable Havelock island October weather.
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| Govindnagar Junction the main bus junction to Radhanagar and Kalapathar Beaches on tiny Havelock Island. |
Walked to the corner of the road bifurcation leading to west coast of Havelock and was right in time to board the bus to Radhanagar Beach. To my utter amazement it was totally dry , hot and sunny in Radhanagar giving me the unique experience of besides sightseeing to experience drastic weather changes on tiny Havelock Island.Lunch was " Fish curry Thali" costing Rs 250, typical Bengali menu at " Maya Restaurant",one of the string of food stalls , restaurants lined up at the entrance/ exit to Radhanagar Beach and worth the money.After lunch walked the short distance to my resort which resembled a farmhouse,which it once was with the surrounding land having numerous Areca( Supari)trees, the most prolific crop on Havelock island.Today was my last day at Radhanagar Beach and it's not everyday that a person gets to see and swim in the 7th most popular beach on Planet Earth.Picked up my swimming kit and made the short walk from " Harmony Resort and Restaurant" to Radhanagar Beach that was crowded with tourists.Undressed into my swimming costume keeping my clothes/ mobile phone on the sand and waded into the warm clear water of Radhanagar Beach.It was a cloudy afternoon which was excellent for swimming as you won't get sunburnt .Was in the sea for 3 hours having entered the sea at 1400 hrs and finally coming out of the sea at 1700 hrs when the lifeguard blew his whistle requesting everyone to come out of the sea onto dry land. Yes, 3 hours just watching the crowd wading and enjoying as also testing the depth of the beach which was perfectly level with depth gradually increasing as you went further into the sea away from shore.
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| Any modeling roles for 60 + generation.As a " HEALTH FITNESS" freak I hope I am a role model for maintaining balance between physical fitness and wealth accumulation.So far so good ! Without proper physical fitness you can't enjoy your wealth to the maximum. Similarly without proper accumulation of wealth your physical fitness will not make you enjoy your life to the maximum. Ahoy ! Had a 3 hours dip/ swim in Radhanagar Beach sea.Excellent Beach with gradual sea gradient from coast and having just pure fine grain sand.Life Guards are on constant patrol and no swimmers is allowed beyond a certain boundary of the sea beach waters.Swimming closes at 1700 hrs .In the swimming pool have been maximum for 2 hrs continuously in water while swimming 2 Kms daily in Mumbai.First time in my life was continuously in water for 3 long hours.This photograph was clicked after 1700 hrs when sea swimming closed and hence beach empty. |
No sudden sink holes which are dangerous and common at most beaches.Definitely one of the World's safest beaches for swimming.A lone swimmer with swim goggles swam into the deep and the lifeguard was quick to reprimand him.
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| End of a evening at Radhanagar Beach and tourists heading home or to eatery shacks on the beach road. |
As for me after a normal warmup lying flat in the shallow waded upto shoulder level depth and swam a short distance back towards the shore .Tried to do " Aqua Yoga" but the same was not possible at sea as the waves interfered with my breathing rhythm.Never in my life did I remain for 3 hours in water with the maximum being 1 1/2 hrs at the M.G.M.O( Mahatma Gandhi memorial Olympic) pool in Mumbai where I regularly swam 2 Kms at a stretch.After the swim walked back to my resort and after the normal bathe changed clothes and was back at Radhanagar Beach. Large tourist crowd as usual and a early dinner was " Dakkai / Paratha" , a Bangladesh origin dish vegetarian dish.I was attracted by the giant size Puri displayed by this vegetarian restaurant and hence ordered the dish.Similar to " Chole Puri" with the difference being this was a giant size Puri stuffed with chole.Something different and not to my liking although I finished the dish.Dessert was a Cadbury chocolate as I am a confirmed "Chocoholic".Went to the beach that was deserted and sat on a beach chair just reminiscing a life of 63 long years on the World's 7th most popular beach.Finally realizing I was the lone beach bum on the beach chair headed back to my resort with the locale of Radhanagar beachside car park and restaurants now almost empty.Back at the resort relaxed on the phone internet with BSNL Internet connectivity being excellent in Havelock. I was using the resorts BSNL wifi as " Reliance Jio" was not very effective on Havelock island. Travel educates.
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| At Havelock Jetty akin to being in a airport to board my ferry, the S.C.I ship " M.V.Strait Island" at 0900 hrs to Port Blair.A 2 1/2 hrs voyage by sea. |
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| Akin to a airport passengers waiting to board their respective ferries .Timings are punctual akin to planes arriving and departing at a airport.Great efficiency in maintaining this excellent ferry system on Andaman Island's. |
Sunday(22/10/2023)Departure Havelock Island and arrivalPort Blair :- Happy Sunday from Swaraj Dweep( Havelock) Island of the Andamans. Had to bid a sad goodbye to " Harmony Resort and Restaurant " at Radhanagar Beach and my new found non- human feline friends of the Resort.After a quick " Omelet/ Toast" breakfast at the resort boarded the ST Bus at 0645 hrs and was early at Swaraj Deep( Havelock) Jetty.Second breakfast was " Idli/ chutney/ coffee" at " Deepak Sweets and hotel" outside Havelock Port jetty while awaiting to board the Government " S.C.I" ship " .M.V.Strait Island " at 0900 hrs to Port Blair.
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| " M.V.Strait Island " from Havelock Island to Port Blair. |
Private ferries cost Rs 1750 while Govt ferries cost Rs 650 or less and not much of a difference in travel comfort except that the private luxury ferry is faster.Retired seafarers are in no hurry ! Have finished with snorkeling which was of the lowest category in comparison to Lakshadweep let alone Maldive Island's or Bali and hopefully from now onwards it woul be sightseeing and " Jungle trekking" in Andamans tropical forests.My advice is if you have money to spend do " PRIVATE SNORKELING" or still better " PRIVATE DIVING" like I did in Bali and Maldives. Not like what I experienced here which was very commercial mass snorkeling/ Dive tourism just meant for photography bragging rights or first timers / Children with just very few fish species sightings.Akin to forest wildlife on land , fish too are sensitive to water disturbances and excess of snorkelers or divers in a tiny area means the larger fish avoid the locale.Elephant Island is the best for " BUDGET SNORKELING" in Andamans according to my opinion. For " BUDGET SNORKELING " Lakshadweep is far ahead in comparison to Andamans.What was unforgettable during my past few days was " Radhanagar Beach " wading and swimming and the " ELEPHANT BEACH MUD TREK".Snorkeling just provided good photograph's akin to a film shoot, absolutely artificial for veterans accustomed to snorkeling or diving.At 0830 hrs was allowed entry into the pier.A large crowd of traveller's was in queue with the first boat to depart from the pier being the private luxury speedboat " Nautica" with a price tag of Rs 1750/ ticket .
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| " Azad Lodge " my new residence in Aberdeen in Port Blair. |
Our S.C.I Government ship " M.V.Strait Island" arrived at 0845 hrs with passengers from Port Blair.Akin to a bus service as soon as the passengers disembarked we were allowed to board the ship gangway and same procedure of seating as on arrival by ship " M.V. Katchal".At 0905 the ship heaved the gangway and we began our voyage to Port Blair.The A/ C of " M.V.Strait Island " was less effective than " M.V.Katchal" and was surprised to find the 73 person seating accommodation almost a quarter empty.Bizzare but true as everyone was saying that getting tickets on the Govt Ferry was difficult as mostly local islanders used this service which was cheap and affordable and hence almost always housefull.A excellent voyage and at 1120 hrs berthed alongside Port Blair.Akin to travelling like a local by ship walked the long distance from Jetty to " Citi Heart" where I was told that reservations were full.Searched in the vicinity as at every nook and corner there seems to be a lodge and now it was actually off- season for tourists.Finally checked into " Azad Lodge" situated in a gully on main Aberdeen market road.From a one room/ attached bathe I had now shifted to " Chawl style" accommodation . A neat " Room No 137" on ground floor with common bath akin to European hostel accomodation.Lunch was local fish curry/ Rice with a piece of fried fish costing Rs 130 at adda " Hotel Thangaraj" excellent for the price and very popular with the locals.Dessert after lunch was " Special Falooda" at " Sagar Cool Bar" a la " Badshah Falooda" style of Crawford market in Mumbai costing Rs 90.No comparison to Badshah but worth the cost.
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| Sunday Mass at Stella Maris Cathedral in Port Blair |
Visited the S.B.I ATM as cash is still important and not all transactions are through U.P.I or cards which unbelievably is the in thing at Andaman resorts.Amazing India and Amazing Andamans where you have the World's last authentic primitive tribals the Sentinelese living on a totally isolated island and preserved in their primitive living by us 21st century Indians .The other Andamanese tribes are not hostile as the Sentinelese but also maintain their primitive subsistence lifestyle aided and protected by the Government.Relaxed in my small room and from 1430 hrs onwards it started raining heavily and I hoped Port Blair localities wouldn't get flooded.
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| Dushera Festival lighting decoration in Aberdeen Bazaar of Port Blair. |
The rain abruptly stopped at around 1530 hrs and on a Sunday I never miss the Sunday Mass at church in which ever country or Indian city travelling .Googled and found that Stella Maris Cathedral was nearest to Aberdeen market.Got dressed and googling direction as well as asking locals reached " ST Mary's Orthodox Cathedral" at Mohanpura,a Syrian Catholic church.Inquired with the watchman and he told me to catch a autorickshaw as the driver would know the location of the church.Boarded a autorickshaw and it was a long drive towards Stella Maris Catholic church and was surprised at seeing other churches of different Christian sects in tiny Port Blair.Asked directions with two young ladies and they directed me to the St Mathews Marthoma Church but finally the rickshaw driver took me to Stella Maris Church.At 1645 hrs the mass was in progress in Hindi language when I entered the church and footwear had to be removed before entry into the church.After mass it was difficult hiring a autorickshaw and finally with great difficulty got a autorickshaw. Dinner was " Massala Dossa/ Lassi" at "Gangam restaurant" followed by a dessert of local Andaman sweet called " Baby Sweet".Back at hostel/ chawl style lodge had a bathe and the " Digital Nomad " was comfortable adapting to situations and circumstances, the real fun of Nomadic solo travel.
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| Nature education on the trek from Jetty to Baratang Limestone cave.A giant poster of various species of turtles for comparison to size of us humans. |
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| On the Govt A/C bus from Port Blair to Baratang in Middle Andaman Island's. |
Monday(23/10/2023) Departure Port Blair and arrival Baratang :- At 0300 hrs got dressed and ready for my Solo travel to Baratang Island in Middle Andaman.Checked out of the lodge leaving my luggage at the reception requesting the manager to store the same as I would be back in Port Blair the next day.At 0315 hrs it was a lonely walk down Aberdeen Bazaar street towards Mohanpura ST Bus terminus just a short 10 minutes walk from my lodge on Aberdeen Bazaar .Was not surprised to see a roadside tea seller busy selling tea and eatables at 0330 hrs in the morning as buses leave at 0400 hrs and even 0300 hrs in the morning. After a refreshing cup of tea and a " Bondu wada" , a local puff sweet , made my way into the bus terminus.Departure of our " Force A/ C bus" was punctual at 0400 hrs and the A/ C was in excellent working condition.It was a long 40 kms morning drive on the Andamans Trunk road ( NH4) to Jirkatang checkpost which is the entry point for " Jarawa Tribal Reserve Forest".On the highway during the drive at various sections was amazed to see cattle seated on one side of the highway with vehicles avoiding them and the bold cattle just refusing to budge from their seating position.This happens only in the Andamans in India. At 0500 hrs we reached Jirkatang checkpost which had a queue of trucks and cars waiting for the checkpost gates to open at 0600 hrs to allow the first convoy of vehicles to enter " Jarwa Reserve Forest" stretching from South to Middle Andamans .Lots of small restaurants on the road and the sight of the forest in early morning mist was beautiful.Finally at 0600 hrs the convoy began its drive reminding me of the " Suez Canal" transit of ships in the convoy system.Its a narrow highway through the Jarawa Reserve Forest and road was bad in patches .
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| Stoppage of vehicles at Jirkatang checkpost. There is a convoy system of travel of 4 wheeler vehicles from Jirkatang to Middle Strait checkpost through pristine Jarawa tribal Reserve Forest. Our convoy began at 0600 hrs. |
It was a mountainous uphill and downhill drive through pristine rainforest reminding me of the National Geographic documentaries of thick Amazon forests.Incredible India and I presumed I had travelled across entire India while missing travel through some of my country's most unique and well kept secret mysterious regions.
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| " S K M Lodge" my lodging in Baratang. A few minutes walk from Nilambar Jetty of Baratang Island in Middle Andaman. |
Didnt come across a Jarawa tribal but the sheer beauty of this unexplained virgin forests was a cure to any stress .Finally at 0715 hrs reached " Middle Strait " checkpost, the end of Jarawa Reservation Forest on Middle Island.End of our road journey and we had to alight our bus and board the " RO RO Ferry" to Nilambar jetty of Baratang.The Ferry ticket was Rs 17 and it was a short slow ferry ride to the opposite side of the creek onto Nilambar Jetty of Baratang.At 0750 hrs touched Nilambar jetty and stepped ashore onto Baratang Island of Middle Andamans.
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| The speedboat journey from " Nilambar Jetty " in Baratang to " Limestone Cave Jetty " in Baratang, a distance of 9km by boat.Here we all tourists have arrived at " Limestone Cave Jetty" situated in midst of beautiful mangrove forests. From this jetty it is a 1.2 Km walk to Limestone caves |
On stepping ashore my first priority was finding accommodation for the night stay in Baratang.Approached a local and he told me that the " Forest Guesthouse" was full but there were other lodges in the vicinity.
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| Scenic countryside of Baratang on trek to " Limestone cave" from Limestone Jetty. |
On inquiring was directed to " SKM Lodge" situated just a few minutes walking distance from Nilambar jetty.Mr V.Rajendran the elderly owner of " SKM Lodge" told me rooms were available, a huge relief as also amazed at being allotted a huge single room/ Attached bathe for Rs 500/ night in comparison to the same amount I was paying for " SINGLE Room" common toilet/ bath at " Azad Lodge" in Downtown prime Aberdeen locality of Port Blair.Its all about location and seasonal tourist demand for accommodation that decides business economics of prime tourist locations in any part of the Globe let alone India.Travel educates.Breakfast was Omelet/ paratha at " Nisha restaurant " next to " SKM Lodge" whose owner Guna told me that he could arrange a boat trip to " Parrot Island" at 1600 hrs in the evening.Travel research at home in Mumbai lead me to Baratang Island for two reasons , first reason being the fact that I would be travelling through one of the most pristine tropical rainforest of the World with a chance of seeing one of the World's most primitive tribe the " Jarawa tribe".The second reason was a visit to " Parrot Island" as " Mittoo" my pet Alexandrine parakeet who lived in my house for 22 long years deserved a visit to his feathered ancestors living in the wild.Guna arranged booking of the shared speedboat at the tourist ferry ticket counter next to the main Ro-Ro ramp Nilambar jetty of Baratang Island.Ticket cost was Rs 900/ person on verification proof of Aadhar card or equivalent identity card.Boarding of speedboat was at a different section through a floating pontoon .
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| View of Stalactites and Stalagmites inside the dark Limestone cave in Baratang Island of Middle Andamans Island.A torchlight is necessary to view the cave as it is dark inside. |
We were a total of 9 tourists who boarded the speedboat " Mevan" with life jackets and at 0900 hrs we set sail for " Limestone Caves" jetty, a distance of 9 Km.
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| " Andaman and Nicobar " Tourist Police office near Nilambar jetty on Baratang Island. Permission for travel by speedboat to any island has to be taken from this office. |
A beautiful morning boat ride at high speed between the creek separating " Middle Strait" of Jarawa Tribal Reserve forests and Baratang Island.At 0930 hrs touched the jetty of " Limestone caves".From the jetty it was another 1.2 Km of walk along a forested trek path that opened into the countryside with paddy fields and a herd of buffaloes grazing in the distance.Unique India and the village topography of majority of coastal Indian villages is identical and this scene of paddy fields and buffaloes reminded me of parents ancestral farmhouses of Mangalore district.This locale was also a birdwatchers paradise as numerous posters of resident birds of the Andaman Island was installed along the pathway,avian education for trekkers interested in birds.Finally at 1000 hrs entered the underground entrance of the Limestone caves of Baratang in Middle Andaman. It was pitch dark inside the Limestone cave crowded with tourists and with Bengali being the main language spoken besides Hindi.A torch is essential for viewing the Limestone cave as it is totally dark inside with just a streak of sunlight emerging from two openings on the ceiling of this enclosed underground cave.From the Limestone cave walked back towards the jetty when the sky's suddenly opened to a continuous downpour of rain.The entire speedboat jetty ride from Limestone cave jetty to Nilambar jetty was in heavy rain and I got completely drenched.Finally at 1120 hrs touched Nilambar jetty and rushed to my lodge room for a quick change of clothes.Lunch at 1230 hrs at " Port Restaurant" was " Rice Thali/ Fry Fish/ Lassi" costing a total of Rs 320" situated on the first floor of the landmark building facing Nilambar jetty.It drizzled the entire afternoon and I was hoping my ambition of visiting " Parrot Island " would not be a total washout, one of the main reasons I travelled to Baratang Island as I had seen "Limestone caves" and " Mud Volcanoes" before in different locales during my travels in India and foreign Country's.I had agreed to pay Guna a princely sum for hiring his boat as a " Solo" passenger as otherwise in group tours they normally take 9 passengers in a speed boat.
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| On the speedboat to " PARROT ISLAND" ,a distance of 30 Kms. |
It was finally 1600 hrs with a slight drizzle and there was no sight of Mr Guna's boat or boat staff.Finally at 1615 hrs Mr Guna went to the "Andaman and Nicobar Tourism Police office " situated in close proximity to Nilambar Jetty to fill my form as permission was required to visit " Parrot Island".To my goodluck a group of 8 passengers were to board the speedboat to " Parrot Island" and their tour manager on payment of Rs 900 agreed to accommodate me in the speedboat. Commander Mr Prasad of the Indian Navy had just arrived from Diglipur with family and a Indian Navy Airforce officer colleague by car and were on their way to Port Blair with a overnight stay at Baratang.Hence the expedition to " Parrot Island".At 1640 hrs we left Baratang for " Parrot island" , a total distance of 30 Km
To our goodluck from cloudy sky the weather changed in a jiffy to a bright Sun set of the Monday evening on our way to " Parrot Island". A beautiful speedboat ride and to our amazement spotted the rainbow in the sky.Unbelievable Baratang weather where just a hour ago there was a continuous drizzle of rain and a cloudy overcast sky.On our way was lucky to spot the hut of a Jarawa tribal built on the edge of a Evergreen Monsoon forest island cliff.A canoe was tied to a tree on the sea below. Robinson Crusoe living in the real World and not fiction.Spotted my first " Sunset " as our boat approached " Parrot Island".Actually according to me the name " PARROT ISLAND" is not appropriate as India doesn't have any parrots but has " Parakeets". Parakeets are smaller than parrots, most well known species being the " Alexandrine Parakeet" and " Rose Ringed Parakeet",once extremely popular aviary pet birds before the ban on keeping such birds in captivity.
My non human companion bird " Mittoo" of the Alexandrine Parakeet species lived in my home for 22 long years, longest lived non- human of our human family in Mumbai. Hence I feel " Parakeet Island" would be the most relevant name for this Island but then I presume " Parrot" sounds a better tourist advertisement than " Parakeet " and hence name " PARROT ISLAND " instead of " PARAKEET ISLAND ".
Elementary says Watson ! India' s leading Ornithologist's would agree with my argument regarding " Parrot Island" name, a misplaced name for bird topography of India.We finally arrived at " Parrot Island" and the engine was stopped and boat drifting in close proximity to this unique tiny island that resembled a carpeted table top of evergreen forest.A few other tourist boats arrived in the vicinity all waiting for the arrival of the flocks of parakeets at total Sunset during twilight zone.Finally as it was almost getting pitch dark the parakeets arrived in droves encircling the tiny island and finally descending like helicopters onto this tiny evergreen forest carpet.A indescribable sight as also a unique phenomenon of nature.Why do all these parakeets descend only on this particular island for roosting at night and not any of the numerous uninhabited islands in the vicinity.Finally it was total darkness and the night still with no chirping of parakeets arriving on this island as the entire flock was now firmly settled on the trees on this island.We headed back to Baratang and on the way we spotted a flash light signaling from the lone " Jarawa Hut".Our speedboat driver told us that the Jarawa tribals were flashing the light just for fun and not for any particular reason.
After arrival at Jetty changed and headed to the west side of Baratang town and came across the main town centre having a large grocery shop, a S.B.I ATM booth as well as houses lining the street.After strolling upto the end of the houses on the street made my way back eastwards towards Nilambar jetty and dinner was " Fish curry/ Thali/ pepsi " costing Rs 220 at " King Restaurant" just a few shops away from my residence " SKM Lodge".At the restaurant came across a Forest officer Mr Anil.John who told me that the Jarawa tribals do interact with Indian forest officials and a few of them have learnt Hindi language.Surprising that modern 21st century Indian society lifestyle and living has not changed the mindset and cultural living of the Jarawa tribe.One of the reasons also that the Government doesn't allow mingling of local population with Jarawa or any of the other indigenous local tribes of Andamans as it wants to preserve their way of life and living.Entire Baratang shuts down by 1900 hrs, a eerie silence in the entire vicinity of Nilambar jetty,devoid of tourists and just locals and few tourists like me staying overnight on the island.Back at my lodge room did get a few hours sleep.
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| Amazing Sunset view at 1650 hrs from our speedboat approaching " PARROT ISLAND". |
My non human companion bird " Mittoo" of the Alexandrine Parakeet species lived in my home for 22 long years, longest lived non- human of our human family in Mumbai. Hence I feel " Parakeet Island" would be the most relevant name for this Island but then I presume " Parrot" sounds a better tourist advertisement than " Parakeet " and hence name " PARROT ISLAND " instead of " PARAKEET ISLAND ".
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| The floating pontoon gangway for boarding speedboats in Baratang |
Elementary says Watson ! India' s leading Ornithologist's would agree with my argument regarding " Parrot Island" name, a misplaced name for bird topography of India.We finally arrived at " Parrot Island" and the engine was stopped and boat drifting in close proximity to this unique tiny island that resembled a carpeted table top of evergreen forest.A few other tourist boats arrived in the vicinity all waiting for the arrival of the flocks of parakeets at total Sunset during twilight zone.Finally as it was almost getting pitch dark the parakeets arrived in droves encircling the tiny island and finally descending like helicopters onto this tiny evergreen forest carpet.A indescribable sight as also a unique phenomenon of nature.Why do all these parakeets descend only on this particular island for roosting at night and not any of the numerous uninhabited islands in the vicinity.Finally it was total darkness and the night still with no chirping of parakeets arriving on this island as the entire flock was now firmly settled on the trees on this island.We headed back to Baratang and on the way we spotted a flash light signaling from the lone " Jarawa Hut".Our speedboat driver told us that the Jarawa tribals were flashing the light just for fun and not for any particular reason.
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| Exhibit of " JARAWA TRIBE" family at "Tourist Museum" in Baratang After building " Andaman NH4" highway across " JARAWA TRIBE RESERVE" a few tribals do wear normal clothes and speak Hindi language.we got to sight a " Jarawa Nomadic hut" on our way to " Parrot Island ". |
After arrival at Jetty changed and headed to the west side of Baratang town and came across the main town centre having a large grocery shop, a S.B.I ATM booth as well as houses lining the street.After strolling upto the end of the houses on the street made my way back eastwards towards Nilambar jetty and dinner was " Fish curry/ Thali/ pepsi " costing Rs 220 at " King Restaurant" just a few shops away from my residence " SKM Lodge".At the restaurant came across a Forest officer Mr Anil.John who told me that the Jarawa tribals do interact with Indian forest officials and a few of them have learnt Hindi language.Surprising that modern 21st century Indian society lifestyle and living has not changed the mindset and cultural living of the Jarawa tribe.One of the reasons also that the Government doesn't allow mingling of local population with Jarawa or any of the other indigenous local tribes of Andamans as it wants to preserve their way of life and living.Entire Baratang shuts down by 1900 hrs, a eerie silence in the entire vicinity of Nilambar jetty,devoid of tourists and just locals and few tourists like me staying overnight on the island.Back at my lodge room did get a few hours sleep.
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| Daybreak on Baratang Island. Notice the thick Fog. |
Tuesday(24/10/2023):- At daylight ventured out of the lodge and after my regular cup of tea at a local Dhaba walked towards Nilambar Jetty where a few barges were tied next to the wharf.There were some early morning walkers using the open space of the pier for short exercise walking.Breakfast was wada/ chutney and at 0700 hrs checked out of " SKM Lodge" leaving my backpack on the lodge premises.At 0745 hrs hired a Scorpio jeep for the drive to the " Mud Volcanoes" of Baratang .Mr Yugen, the driver of the Scorpio charged me Rs 800 for the private tour normally done in groups." SOLO TRAVEL" proves expensive at times in isolated locales where mass organized tourism is not prevalent and hence travel and accommodation exorbitant for a loner tourist in comparison to tourists travelling in large groups or at least as a pair.At 0800 hrs was at the entrance of the " Mud Volcano" pathway.From the entrance it was a long uphill walk to the top of the small hill which had a fence enclosing the small plateau on top of the hill.Having viewed " MUD Volcanoes " near Baku in Azerbaijan was surprised to see a tiny mound of mud akin to a inverted glass being the most prominent " Mud Volcano" in the fenced area.There was another larger mound but this was dry mud and not fresh mud oozing liquid Volcano.After the normal photography .walked downhill to the waiting vehicle.
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| At entrance to " Mud Volcano ". It's a short uphill trek from here to Mud Volcano ground |
On the short drive back to the jetty had a conversation with Mr Yuzi who was originally from the State of Jharkhand and was surprised to know that most of the locals of Baratang were Catholic Christians and came across a well constructed " Our Lady of Rosary Catholic church ".Was finally at Nilambar jetty and visited the tourist museum cum permit centre, a tiny hall having exhibits that explains the topography and local tourist sites of Baratang and different primitive tribes of Andamans. Observed that the numerous crows on Baratang Island were a jet black ," Jungle Crow" species with a very different crowing sound in comparison to common crows found in Mumbai city.A early.lunch of " Vegetable Thali/ Fried Fish" was at ," King Restaurant " after which at 1145 hrs boarded the ferry back to " Middle Strait Jetty" on the opposite side of Baratang Island.A bridge is in the process of being contructed connecting Baratang Island with Middle Strait and hence in a few years this romantic but time consuming "Ro Ro Ferry" crossing would be history.I was absolutely early as the " Vehicle Convoy " from " Middle Strait" checkpost across Jarawa Reserve Forest to " Jirkatang "Checkpost began at 1500 hrs .Sat alone at a tourist shade built on the edge of the mangrove forest opposite "Middle Strait" tourist building and bird spotting luck favoured me.It was low tide and a pond heron was busy using its cunning skills to catch fish and was soon joined by 3 purple moorhen's.These birds kept me busy as I was hidden from their gaze akin to sitting on a elevated bird Watchtower hide.Met the local checkpoint constable who also told me that a few Jarawa tribals speak Hindi and wear normal clothing.Finally tourists did arrive and at 1500 hrs our convoy of buses , cars, and trucks began the journey from " Middle Strait" checkpoint onto Jarawa Reserve Forest.
Had a conversation with local Mr Chand.Khan whose parents lived in Baratang while he in Port Blair.
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| " MUD VOLCANO" Topography.A slight elevated mound above ground level that is wet and oozing a slight liquid. |
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| " Middle Strait" Jetty Island on other side of Baratang Island. |
Originally from North India they were now local Andamanese. The road journey although terrible at times with crater holes on the highway was beautiful and soothing for eyes.
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| Ferry from Baratang to " Middle Strait ". |
Lush tropical evergreen rainforest with dome of the tallest trees and creepers I have seen in India.The entire topography was mountainous with curving ups and downs along the highway.As the bus whizzed along the highway just caught a fleeting glimpse of a Jarawa tribal seated on the kerbside of the Highway.Later Mr Chand.Khan confirmed that the man was a Jarawa tribal in fact he had spotted two Jarawa tribals during the drive.Today also happened to be Dushera festival and on approaching Port Blair came across many localities decked with grand lighting decorations .On arrival at Mohanpura ST Bus terminus was greeted with grand festival lighting of entire Mahatma Gandhi chowk of Mohanpura.Walked the short distance from Mohanpura ST Bus stand to " Azad Lodge" and was given a new room on the 1st floor also meeting the owner of the lodge Mr Mohammed.Kutty of Kerala origin.Was glad to know that " Room No 123" had " Jio WiFi" access, a great relief to me.Dinner ,believe it or not was 3 cups of " Fruit Ice cream " at now familiar " Sagar Cool Bar," a miniature version of iconic " Badshah Coldrink House" at Crawford market in Mumbai.Incredible India.
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| Inside the Naval Museum " Samudrika".Model of a Nicobarese Hut at main entrance to the museum. |
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| " Haddo Port ",the main deep water Port in Port Blair. Coastal passenger and large cargo ships dock in this Port. |
Wednesday(25/10/2023) Port Blair:- My agenda for today was to visit museums of Port Blair and decided to first visit " Chatham Saw Mill" , the oldest and largest Saw mill in Asia.In the morning walked the short distance to Mohanpura ST Bus terminus and at the main reception enquiry counter inquired about buses to Chatham Saw mills.The gentleman at the enquiry counter was very obliging and provided me with all information regarding travel by bus to Chatham Island, Wandoor Beach and Chidiyatapu my main tour itinerary for the next few days before departure to Mumbai.As there was no direct bus to Chatham from Mohanpura bus depot boarded the bus passing through Golghar junction and after alighting at Golghar junction boarded another bus to Chatham Island.Passed alongside Haddo Port which was on the opposite bank of Chatham Island.Haddo Port is the main wharf where larger ships including cargo ships dock on arrival in Port Blair.Chatham was the last stop and from the bus stand it was a short walk to "Government Saw Mill, Chatham".Entrance ticket was Rs 20 and on entering this historical Industrial complex was awed by its history as also the fact that for the first time in my life I was visiting a Saw mill and that too Asia's largest as well as oldest Saw mill.First visited the museum that was excellently maintained explaining the various important tourist locales on Andaman Island's.Old vintage photographs were on display as also handicrafts made from Andaman Padauk tree.
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| " Chatham saw Mill", the oldest and largest Saw mill in Asia. |
From the museum visited the main Saw Mill factory and was surprised to see total mechanization of cutting of timber from the raw product of the tree right upto planks.Human labour akin to a normal conveyor system was only used for arranging and shifting of planks and came out of the factory educated in rudimentary knowledge of log cutting and the assortment of finished wood products.Finally at 1000 hrs finished my Industrial tour of Chatham Saw mills and boarded a bus to Mohanpura bus depot on the way getting a glimpse of Haddo fish market which was just opening for business.At Mohanpura Bus stand inquired the bus to " Samudrika Naval Museum " and to my disbelief was told it was near Chatham Island near Andaman Teal house.I had just returned from Chatham Island and had to now go back again to almost the same locale.Truth is stranger than fiction.Boarded a autorickshaw and was driven straight to the entrance of " Naval Museum Samudrika ".Entrance charge to the museum was Rs 50 and the museum was divided into 5 different sections.At the entrance there is a original authentic skeleton of a Blue whale displayed in the open air compound of the museum building.Two Antiaircraft guns are also on display.Each of the 5 rooms has a display on a particular subject explaining the history,Nomadic indigenous tribes, flora,fauna,fish species as well as different regions of the Andaman and Nicobar Island's.
I liked the subject on explaining different types of corals.
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| Authentic " Blue whale" Skeleton displayed at " Naval Museum Samudrika " |
In the open air foyer outside the 5 display rooms were two television sets, one showing a documentary on achievements of Prime Minister Narendra.Modi and the other the display of training and service life in the Indian Navy .The last room had a display of souvenirs including prized sea shells of the Andaman Island's costing thousands of rupees and realized i had a decent collection of shells at home in Mumbai. At approximately 1200 hrs left the museum and later boarded a autorickshaw to Mohanpura ST Bus terminus. On the way told the autorickshaw driver to stop at a good average cost sea food restaurant and hence lunch was " Roti/ Fish curry/ Fried Fish/ Pepsi" at "Green Park " restaurant,excellent fresh fish.After lunch walked the long distance to my lodge room and relaxed,a travel workaholic to the core.As for income after realizing I was a authentic " Digital Nomad" the " Israel- Hamas " war had a cascading effect on the Indian Stock market making owners of Industry's and their shareholders lose money as Stock values fell beyond imagination.What me worry ? At 1330 hrs walked out of the lodge and made my way towards the " Fisheries Aquarium" situated near entrance of " Rajiv Gandhi Water Sports Complex ( Marina Park)".Entrance to the museum was Rs 10 and I was one of the few visitors at that time of the day in this aquarium.First appearances can be deceptive and seeing the luke warm reception to this museum presumed it was a poor replica of a aquarium.
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| Inside " Fisheries Aquarium " near Marina park in front of a model of a Saw Fish in a glass casing . Excellent museum for getting a basic knowledge of the underwater living organisms of the Andaman and Nicobar Island's. Advice first time divers , snorkelers as well as common tourists to first visit all the 4 museums in Port Blair to get a knowledge of the fish, sea shells , corals and tribal history of the Andaman and Nicobar Island's. |
I was totally wrong and was initially lucky to have the entire large first compartment viewing hall to myself, akin to a V.I.P guest.Excellent collection of various marine specimens preserved in formaldehyde jars.
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| View of Mohanpura Bus Terminus .Excellent public buses and mini buses, both A/ C and ordinary with a large A/ C waiting hall for passengers.Thanks to this excellent Public bus services as a " SOLO" tourist could sightsee main sights in Port Blair. |
There was the model of a gigantic Saw fish on display as well as two Saw-Fish saws , a endangered species due to overfishing as also model of a dolphin.In the second hall was the aquarium of live fish and specimens of various types of corals.Very educative and as I had dived at a shipwreck in Bali in Indonesia as well as snorkeled in the Lakshadweep Island's could identify almost all the aquarium ship and educated myself on various types of sea shells and corals.The next time I Snorkel will be better educated in identifying the different coral species.My sincere advice to tourists visiting Port Blair is to first visit all the museums or at least the aquarium museum if seriously interested in diving or snorkeling as a underwater wildlife hobby.Load shedding in Port Blair is terrible and during my visit to the fisheries aquarium the power supply went off a few times making it a different experience viewing fish species in the dark akin to " Night Diving".Excellent museum for students and beginners of snorkeling and diving.From the museum was back to Aberdeen and decided to have a look at " Peter" the cat in the vegetable market." Peter" the cat was not at his usual place and seemed to be loafing somewhere in the market . Decided to purchase bananas and was surprised at the quality and price of the local Andaman Island bananas, cheap and delicious. Back to my lodge had a decent 4 hrs sleep.
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| At Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park. Met a few fishermen from whom I got this fresh caught fish. |
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| Entrance to " New Wandoor Beach " |
Thursday(26/10/2023):- At 0430 left the lodge and headed towards Mohanpura ST Bus stand having a early morning cup of tea at the familiar roadside dhaba.At 0515 hrs boarded electric air-conditioned bus " No 1" and began the long 29 Kms drive to Wandoor Beach situated inside the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park.The ticket cost was Rs 50 and it was a pleasant long drive in air-conditioned comfort.Finally after a drive of 45 minutes at 0600 hrs reached the entrance gate of " Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park " and to my disbelief was told that " Jolly Buoy Island
was closed to tourists since " Covid-19" pandemic in 2020 and would reopen in November 2023.This didn't bother me as I had already finished my snorkeling agenda in Andamans with " Jolly Buoy Island" being a curiosity as every visitor had a high opinion about the Island's water clarity and underwater sports.what surprised me was that there was no mention of " Jolly Buoy Island " closure in any of the articles on the Internet ." Wandoor Beach" is the last stop of the bus and the beach is about 1.2 Km from the entrance gate of " Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park ".At 0620 hrs on alighting the bus at Wandoor Beach the conductor was helpful in explaining a few locations and to my amazement I was the lone human let alone tourist on the entire stretch of Wandoor Beach .Felt like a Billionaire owning a piece of prime beach front property.
There were 4 stray dog's that immediately befriended me and looking around among the string of closed shops along the beach front spotted a lone shop open and hence besides me there was a shop owner on Wandoor Beach.
Strolled along the beach coast and it was high tide.As usual took photographs for the memory bank and later another local opened his shop.
Swimming was banned as there was a salt water crocodile sighting and a cage akin to a pontoon was left floating a little distance from the shore to trap the crocodile.Reminded me of the movie " JAWS" and thanks to this crocodile sighting entire swimming business at Wandoor Beach had come to a standstill.Wadnoor has one of the longest beaches in Port Blair and I had brought my snorkeling kit let alone preparation for a normal swim.The sight of the uninhabited tiny islands in the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park from Wandoor Beach was awesome, worth the long 29 Km road trip.
Finally decided to make my way back to the entrance gate of the Marine National Park which was a pleasant walk early in the morning.Near the entrance is the boat jetty for the island tour and had a talk with the boatmen. Private visits to any island was banned.The Marine park has a small museum and I was definitely the first visitor of the day.A old man guided me through the exhibits which were all dummy models but with excellent explanation .The light indicator model exhibit on various sea organisms and corals of the Andamans was excellent and having visited 3 museums with this being my fourth museum in Port Blair got the heady feeling that I was now a authority on local fish species / Corals seen while snorkeling or diving.Breakfast was " Fish fry/ Puri/ channa" at " Jolly Buoy Restaurant" situated just before the main entrance gate of " Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park". A real odd combination for breakfast but was excellent. Two fishermen were passing alongside the hotel with a fresh catch of fish and requested them for a photo- shoot with their fresh caught fish.Boarded the common non- A/C bus at 0915 hrs and had a pleasant ride back to Aberdeen with the bus ending at another depot near Mohanpura.Walking the distance towards Mohanpura entered the Port Blair fish market of Mohanpura which was very well maintained and very clean for a fish market in comparison to fish markets in Mumbai..Relaxed in my room and at 1230 hrs went back to Mohanpura Bus terminus and boarded the " No 11 " A/C bus to Corbyn Chowk thinking it would take me to " Corbyn Cove" beach.
On boarding the bus the conductor told me that Corbyn Cove Beach was about 2.5 Km from Corbyn Chowk. So finally on arriving at Corbyn Chowk which was a long 8 Km ride from Aberdeen alighted and boarded a autorickshaw to Corbyn beach, the fare amounting to Rs 80.To my disgust swimming was banned on Corbyn Cove beach as there was a crocodile sighting but water sports was being conducted.Corbyn Cove beach when looking from the sea towards the beach is shaped like a horse shoe but the beach sand was ordinary in comparison to other beaches in Andamans.
Requested the lifeguards to allow me to just wade in the water which was permitted and hence spent a hour just lying in shallow water and doing my " Aqua Yoga" while watching tourists enjoying " Water ski jet" rides..Finally at 1530 hrs boarded the bus to Aberdeen which took the vert scenic coastal route .A beautiful drive in a air-conditioned bus the ticket being Rs 30 and bringing back memories of " Chapman's Peak" drive in Cape Town in South Africa.Dinner was " Nicobarese Fish" at " Ananda Restaurant" situated near the clock tower.A plush restaurant having a large fish tank with beautiful Koi and shark fish, excellent ambiance .After dinner it was ice- cream and finally back to " Room No 123" of " Azad Lodge".It was a large lodge having various types of accommodation including " Single room/ Attached bathe/ T.V " used mostly by families.
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| View of a section of New Wandoor Beach at Full Tide. |
There were 4 stray dog's that immediately befriended me and looking around among the string of closed shops along the beach front spotted a lone shop open and hence besides me there was a shop owner on Wandoor Beach.
Strolled along the beach coast and it was high tide.As usual took photographs for the memory bank and later another local opened his shop.
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| Boats parked along the coast inside Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park. |
Swimming was banned as there was a salt water crocodile sighting and a cage akin to a pontoon was left floating a little distance from the shore to trap the crocodile.Reminded me of the movie " JAWS" and thanks to this crocodile sighting entire swimming business at Wandoor Beach had come to a standstill.Wadnoor has one of the longest beaches in Port Blair and I had brought my snorkeling kit let alone preparation for a normal swim.The sight of the uninhabited tiny islands in the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park from Wandoor Beach was awesome, worth the long 29 Km road trip.
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| Inside " Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park " Museum. |
Finally decided to make my way back to the entrance gate of the Marine National Park which was a pleasant walk early in the morning.Near the entrance is the boat jetty for the island tour and had a talk with the boatmen. Private visits to any island was banned.The Marine park has a small museum and I was definitely the first visitor of the day.A old man guided me through the exhibits which were all dummy models but with excellent explanation .The light indicator model exhibit on various sea organisms and corals of the Andamans was excellent and having visited 3 museums with this being my fourth museum in Port Blair got the heady feeling that I was now a authority on local fish species / Corals seen while snorkeling or diving.Breakfast was " Fish fry/ Puri/ channa" at " Jolly Buoy Restaurant" situated just before the main entrance gate of " Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park". A real odd combination for breakfast but was excellent. Two fishermen were passing alongside the hotel with a fresh catch of fish and requested them for a photo- shoot with their fresh caught fish.Boarded the common non- A/C bus at 0915 hrs and had a pleasant ride back to Aberdeen with the bus ending at another depot near Mohanpura.Walking the distance towards Mohanpura entered the Port Blair fish market of Mohanpura which was very well maintained and very clean for a fish market in comparison to fish markets in Mumbai..Relaxed in my room and at 1230 hrs went back to Mohanpura Bus terminus and boarded the " No 11 " A/C bus to Corbyn Chowk thinking it would take me to " Corbyn Cove" beach.
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| Port Blair Fish market in Mohanpura. |
On boarding the bus the conductor told me that Corbyn Cove Beach was about 2.5 Km from Corbyn Chowk. So finally on arriving at Corbyn Chowk which was a long 8 Km ride from Aberdeen alighted and boarded a autorickshaw to Corbyn beach, the fare amounting to Rs 80.To my disgust swimming was banned on Corbyn Cove beach as there was a crocodile sighting but water sports was being conducted.Corbyn Cove beach when looking from the sea towards the beach is shaped like a horse shoe but the beach sand was ordinary in comparison to other beaches in Andamans.
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| At Corbyn Cove Beach. Swimming was banned. Water Ski Jet boat rides are popular. |
Requested the lifeguards to allow me to just wade in the water which was permitted and hence spent a hour just lying in shallow water and doing my " Aqua Yoga" while watching tourists enjoying " Water ski jet" rides..Finally at 1530 hrs boarded the bus to Aberdeen which took the vert scenic coastal route .A beautiful drive in a air-conditioned bus the ticket being Rs 30 and bringing back memories of " Chapman's Peak" drive in Cape Town in South Africa.Dinner was " Nicobarese Fish" at " Ananda Restaurant" situated near the clock tower.A plush restaurant having a large fish tank with beautiful Koi and shark fish, excellent ambiance .After dinner it was ice- cream and finally back to " Room No 123" of " Azad Lodge".It was a large lodge having various types of accommodation including " Single room/ Attached bathe/ T.V " used mostly by families.
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| At Manipur Parvat National park( Mt Harriet National park) in Port Blair.Had hired this jeep from Bambooflat Jetty to the park and back to Jetty. |
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| 43 Kms A/ C bus ride to Bambooflat from Port Blair. Excellent view of countryside |
Friday(27/10/2023) Port Blair:- As usual got my intermittent 4 hrs sleep that strangely keeps me going throughout the rest of 24 hrs since decades.Bizarre but true.At 0600 hrs headed out of " Azad Lodge" to Mohanpura ST Bus terminus.Breakfast was " Wada/ Chutney/ Banana fritter/ 2 cups tea" costing Rs 90.Boarded the " EB39" A/C bus for " Bamboo Flat".It was a total distance of 43 Km from Mohanpura bus stop to Bambooflat Jetty and as a tourist a wonderful experience of the local life of the average Andamanese and a view of the countryside and towns along the route.Bus fare was Rs 66 and the bus was filled to capacity mostly with school going children.Finally after one hour fifteen minutes arrived at Bambooflat Jetty.There is a Ferry from Chetham island to Bambooflat which is the most common mode of transport for locals and vehicle owners.I took the road route just to get a feel of the countryside and the local way of living.My advice to tourists is always take the Ferry from Chatham Island to Bambooflat and vice- versa as this is the cheapest and fastest route.Mount Manipur( Mount Harriet) is at a elevation of 383 metres( 1257 ft) and unless young or a professional trekker it's a tiring trek up the inclined mountain of Mount Manipur ( Mount Harriet).Jeeps and rickshaws are available on charter hire and hence hired a jeep at a cost of Rs 600 for the return fare with a waiting time of 1 hour at the peak of the National Park.At 0820 hrs jeep driver Mr Muhammed Ali began our drive to Mount Manipur.
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| At " Rs 20 Note Viewpoint " It was from this place the photograph of " North Bay Island " was clicked for Rs 20 Indian Currency note.North Bay Island is in the background and I am holding a Rs 20 note. |
It was a typical upward mountain drive and on the way came across posters exhibiting various wildlife endemic to Andaman Island's. At " Rs 20 Note View Point" the driver stopped the jeep and told me that this was the location of the photograph of North Bay Island which has been immortalized on the Indian Rs 20 currency note.Finally reached the main entrance gate of " Manipur Parvat National park ( Mount Harriet National Park)" where I had to register myself and the jeep number and pay a entrance fee of Rs 130.Driver Muhammed Ali parked the jeep in the parking lot and gave me a one and half hour time limit to sightsee the National Park akin to a Group package tour only difference this was a " One Man Package tour" and atrosciously expensive.It was a short uphill walk from the main entrance gate to the summit of Mount Manipur( Mount Harriet) peak and was surprized to see a large flat plateau garden on the peak of Mount Manipur, akin to any common garden.There was a large Forest Guesthouse near the entrance and certain historical remnants of the British and Japanese era of Andaman rule was on display in the form of a turret of a World War II era anti-aircraft gun used by the Japanese after capturing Andaman Island's from the British.There were two elevated viewpoints in the park,one near the entrance and one near the end of the park.Climbed up the observatory of " Emerald View Viewpoint" and with my binoculars got a beautiful view of " North Bay Island" and " Subhash Chandra Bose ( Ross) Island", both of which I had visited.In close proximity to " Emerald Viewpoint" is a downhill Forest trek path of 2.2 Km that leads to " Kalapathar" point which has rocks.On the same route leading about 80 meters uphill is the remnant of a turret of a anti- aircraft gun.
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| On " Manipur Parvat National park ( Mount Harriet National Park) at a altitude of 383 meters( 1257 ft). The third highest peak in the Andaman and Nicobar Island's. Model of a Nicobarese Hut can be seen in the background. Beautiful views of North Bay Island and Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Island ( Ross island) from this peak.The surrounding forest is a bird watchers paradise of birds endemic to the Andamans.There are two camp tents on this ground for overnight stay of tourists |
There is a model of a Nicobarese Hut in the park and also two small campsites for tourists.
There were hoardings regarding birds endemic to Andaman Island's as also of reptiles.I managed to sight a Kingfisher bird and a Jungle Crow in a forest that was otherwise teeming with bird, insect and reptile life.
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| " GUNPOINT ". Remains of a turret of World War II antiaircraft gun on Mount Harriet. |
If wanting to sight wildlife then a person should stay overnight in the camp for at least one night and trek deep into the forest.I was the lone tourist with a few others entering later and honestly nothing exceptional visiting " Manipur Parvat National Park ( Mount Harriet National Park)" unless you are a avid birdwatcher or naturalists wanting to camp overnight or a few days in the park to study its flora and fauna.Otherwise it's a braggers rights club achievement of visiting the third highest peak in the Andaman and Nicobar Island's.At 1010 hrs made my way out of the National Park and met driver Muhammed Ali at the car park.We drove downhill to the main entrance gate where I had to check-out my name and vehicle from the register book.Safety of tourists seemed to be the motto of the tourism industry of Andamans, the first time I had come across so many rules and regulations regarding " Watersports" and travel within different Island's in a state or Union territory within India's national boundary.After the descent to sea level and driving across the seafront road came across the unique designed " Our Lady of Vaillankani Shrine " at Panighat.The church is built on a small hillock above sea level and looks magnificent from the sea facing highway.Finally reached Bambooflat Jetty and thanking driver Muhammed Ali made my way towards the ferry terminus where a ferry boat was just about to disembark for Chatham Island.Purchasing the ferry ticket costing Rs 13 boarded the ferry which was held back because of a ambulance.Finally the ambulance arrived and after heaving the RORO ramp the ferry began its journey to Chatham Island.It was approximately a 20 minutes ferry journey finally reaching Chatham Island Jetty at 1055 hrs.
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| Landmark " Our Lady of Vaillankani Shrine " built in 2004 on a hill at Panighat. |
A few ships were docked in Haddo harbour of which S.C.I passenger ship " Swaraj Dweep " was one of the ship's.On arrival at Jetty was lucky to get the connecting ST Bus to Aberdeen.Lunch was " Massala Dossa/ Fruit Ice cream" with bananas. Had some well deserved rest in my room with electricity going out as often as every one hour, the worst electricity outage I have experienced in a Capital city of a Union territory of India.In the evening walked upto familiar Mohanpura ST Bus stand and boarded the " No 3" A/C bus to the " Cellular Jail". It was time I watched the light and sound show at the " Cellular Jail".The main entrance edifice of " Cellular Jail " was beautifully illuminated in bright pink colour and was surprised on seeing a huge crowd of tourists. On inquiry was told tickets had to be booked on- line through the Andaman Govt tourism website.Was also told that booking had to be done a few day's in advance as it is usually housefull if you try booking for the same day's show.I tried connecting to the site but couldn't connect to " Ticket booking" and on consultation with other tourists found they also faced the same problem.To my good luck a local travel agent had extra tickets as a group of 10 tourists had cancelled their booking for the show.Hence I managed to get a ticket for the 1850 hrs show with the ticket cost being Rs 300 and same transferred to me through Whatsapp.Akin to getting a " Extra ticket" at a film show in Mumbai during my youth of the 1970's.
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| CELLULAR JAIL illuminated at night.If visiting Port Blair do not leave the city without viewing the " Sound and Light " show after Sunset.During the Sound and Light Show at Cellular Jail, various artists enact the life of prisoners when the jail was operational.Cellular Jail imprisoned many freedom revolutionaries of India. Savarkar brothers, Babu Ram Hari, Pandit Parmanand, Ullaskar Dutt, Bhai Parmanand, Prithvi Singh Azad, Trailokyanath Chakravarthy to name a few of the most prominent prisoners who were incarcerated in this jail. Many charismatic freedom fighters involved in Alipore Bomb case, Lahore Conspiracy Case, Inter-Provincial Conspiracy Case, etc. were also brought to this jail under long terms of imprisonment. All this significant history is brought out through this informative and famous Sound and Light Show where the entire Cellular jail complex with a giant screen in the centre is used as a open air theatre. |
Akin to a open air theatre the tickets also had seat numbers and on entry into the " Cellular Jail" compound made myself comfortable on " SEAT No 409",extremely fortunate to get this extra ticket.
A house- full crowd with the show beginning at 1850 hrs.A World class show on par with the best in the World with the entire " Cellular Jail" ground and edifice used as a giant screen to tell the history of Andaman Island, Andaman Jail and the initial freedom movement of India.The commentary was in Hindi as are all the shows with the English commentary shows being stopped as it was not popular.My sincere advice is anyone visiting Port Blair should make it mandatory to visit the " Cellular Jail" during daylight opening hours and later the " Cellular Jail Light & Sound show" in the evening after dark.After the show walked the long distance back to " Azad Lodge " my.legs and arms still recovering from leech/ insect bites during the unforgettable trek from Radhanagar to Elephant Beach on Swaraj Dweep ( Havelock Island).The leech/ unidentified insect bites tormented me a little and somehow got some sleep.
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| At entrance gate of " Biological Park Chidyatapu ". |
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| With local Anand .Rao at Chidyatapu Beach. Thanks to Mr Rao got to understand the topography of the Island's. |
Saturday (28/10/2023)Port Blair :- At 0630 hrs made my way out of the lodge onto my daily route towards Mohanpura ST Bus terminus stopping for breakfast at market landmark adda " Thangaraj Hotel", the common man's dhaba.After a " Omelet/ puri/ wada" breakfast walked across the road to my now daily road transport, the common " ST Bus".At 0710 hrs boarded the A/ C bus to Chidyatapu with the bus fare being Rs 40 excellent fare for a road trip of 26 Kms.Initially it was the same familiar route as yesterday to Bambooflat passing alongside International airport but after a long drive there was a major diversion in opposite directions with Chidyatapu being on the West of the Island and Bambooflat to the east.The conductor told me that these early morning mini A/ C buses were meant mostly for school children and I observed the same school rush yesterday as well as today on the bus's but moving in different directions and different destinations.Approaching Chidyatapu came across a organized Marathon/ Long Distance run in progress with volunteers / police assembled on the " Checkpoint/ Water break" route of the race.Finally our bus arrived at Chidyatapu , a scenic locale facing the sea and small islands.Walked onto a road away from the sea coast and came across " Chidyatapu Biological Park " which was a combination of a mini zoo and botanical park with a large reserve of trees endemic to Andaman and Nicobar Islands.The Biological park opened at 0900 hrs and since I was early made my way out of the park premises onto Chidyatapu Beach.The Sun was shining at its brightest and luckily there was a tourist rest shack on the beach .
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| High Tide at Chidyatapu Beach.Swimming not allowed due to crocodile. |
From Chidyatapu Beach it is a 3.2 Km walk or drive along the beach road to Mundapahad beach. Chidyatapu is famous for its Sunset views and as for the sighting of birds after which it is named I did manage to spot a white bellied sea eagle hovering above a tree at a short distance from the beach.Also spotted a few aquatic birds sitting on boulders in the sea.To actually spot birds would require a day's stay and a trek into the forest.Alone in the tourist open air observation shack admired the beauty of the islands seen from the beach.Later a Grey bearded man arrived on a scooter and parking it near the shade came and sat in the tourist observation shack.Picked up a conversation with Mr Anand.Rao who was a local whose family had lived in Andamans for generations.He had served in the Indian Navy for the minimum 15 years service and was now receiving a pension as well as running his own fishing business besides owning some land.Thanks to Anand.Rao got a wealth of information on the topography of the sea bordering Chidyatapu and neighbouring uninhabited islands.He told me that North Sentinel Island famed for its small band of extremely hostile Sentinelese primitive tribals was just 52 Kms away and only 2 1/2 hrs by boat from Chidyatapu Beach.The Island facing Chidyatapu was called " Red Line Island" and had a wealth of wildlife like deer, hogs and birds besides natural springs providing water.No local fisherman was allowed to step onto these uninhabited islands without permission and were allowed to fish keeping a certain distance from the islands.
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| Salt water crocodiles in Chidyatapu Biological park in South Andamans. |
With my binoculars I had noticed a long rope like article floating on the water in mid- channel of the sea and he told me this was the location where grass was fed to the Dugongs, the national aquatic animal of the Andaman and Nicobar Island's.
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| Deciduous Tropical rain forest in Chidyatapu Biological Park. |
He also mentioned that in winter a lot of migratory birds arrive in the waters of Chidyatapu and hence one of the reasons for its name, "Chidyatapu"..Finally Anand dropped me at the entrance gate of " Chidyatapu Biological Park " and bid adieu to my valuable source of information.On payment of Rs 20 was allowed entrance into the park which also provided a free locker for storing any luggage or bags as tourists were not allowed to carry anything into the Biological park.Stored my small backpack in the locker and began my trek across this small Biological Park. Had to walk uphill along a pathway as this park was built on a small hill.This park is a treasure trove for botanists with dense forests and various species of different tropical deciduous rain forest trees.As for the birds and animals most cages were damaged, open and empty.The few animals and birds in this zoo were Macaque crab eating monkeys, cheetal deer, barking deer, wild pigs and Andaman palm civet.Among reptiles there was a good collection of salt water crocodiles and monitor lizards.The birds spotted in two different enclosures was the Andaman dark serpent eagle and the white bellied sea eagle .Only hope the Biological park improves its stock of birds and animals endemic to Andaman and Nicobar Island's and doesn't close down due to lack of animals or birds for exhibition.I have personally visited zoo's across India let alone the World and what I saw at Chidyatapu Biological Park doesn't augur well for the future of this biological park as a zoo and hope it doesn't become a total Botanical park.
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| " Flag point" in Port Blair. |
At 1115 hrs made my way out of the park onto the bus stand and lucky to board the 1130 hrs bus to Aberdeen where lunch was excellent " Amritsar fish curry rice" at Ananda Restaurant.
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| At " Flag Point" in Port Blair |
After a short rest in my lodge room boarded the bus from Mohanpura to " Flag Point".Took some photographs at Flagpoint where on 30th December 1943 Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose first hoisted the Indian National flag when the Andaman and Nicobar Island's was briefly under Japanese occupation during World War II.While returning back from " Flagpoint" had to walk the distance across Marina Park as the road was closed due to the police force having a practice March parade on the road.Came across the " Childrens Traffic Park " a innovation of providing young toddlers and children a tricycle playground to learn safe driving. The setup is such that the park resembles a miniature street replete with roads, traffic lights, speed breakers & traffic police with idea to help children understand and appreciate traffic rules and teach them how to conduct themselves when in traffic.There was the model of a large adult bicycle suspended on a support above the ground.Kids are allowed to borrow bicycles and tricycles free of charge between 1700 -2000 hrs.This playground was maintained and installed by the " Andaman and Nicobar Traffic Police"." Teach them young" as the quote goes. Dinner was a giant size " Onion Uthapam " at " Gangam" restaurant followed by " Fruit Ice cream" at " Sagar Cool Bar". A decent night's 4 hrs sleep and thankfully the leech/ insect bites itching sensation ceased and the " Digital Nomad" was back to normal.
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| " Zonal Anthropological Museum" . |
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| At " Zonal Anthropological Museum " in Port Blair. |
Sunday(29/10/2023) Port Blair :- Sunday means Port Blair commercial shops are closed.Breakfast at 0815 hrs was at " Hotel Milan " just next door to " Azad Lodge".After breakfast walked past Mahatma Gandhi(Gandhi Chowk) landmark statue opposite Mohanpura Bus terminus and further down the road towards Dr Ambedkar statue.Boarded a autorickshaw to Anthropological museum situated up the inclined hill road opposite Bengal club.Entrance was at 0930 and entrance fee Rs 20.It is a small 3 storey building with the first 2 floors having exhibits on the Anthropological history of the primitive tribes of Andamans.The 3rd floor is closed for public viewing.On the first floor is a auditorium where excellent authentic filmed historical documentary is shown about the various tribes of the Andamans.Excellent and as a hobbyist Anthropologist myself found the documentary a goldmine of information.Sadly the Anthropology museum is not well maintained and looked shabby as if it had seen better days in the past.My advice to tourists landing in Port Blair is to first visit all the 4 prominent museums in Port Blair which I have visited to understand the Andaman and Nicobar Island's and also places of tourism within the islands.Walked back to my " Nomadic" home away from home to " Azad Lodge" discovering my own Anthropology as a " Nomad" post Internet era upgraded to a " Digital Nomad".
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| " Children's Traffic Park " maintained by City Traffic Police at Marina Park. |
What amazed me is that with the Great Andaman NH 4 highway passing through " JARAWA RESERVE FOREST" in Middle Andaman how do this miniscule population of primitive nomadic hunters still elude 21st century human interaction along with modernization of lifestyle and living.Won't they become extinct in the near future ? I am no certified, qualified Anthropologist but to me seems the days of the Andaman tribals existing in their present form could be history in a few decades or less than a decade from now.
At 1300 hrs boarded the " No 24 A/C " bus to Chidyatapu the ticket costing Rs 44, better than a tourist bus.Reached Chidyatapu at 1400 hrs on a bright sunny afternoon.Took refuge from the hot Sun in the tourist shack and as usual picked a conversation with a young hotel employee who had a passion for photography.Suddenly I spotted Mr Anand.Rao who was busy setting up his business of selling tender coconuts in the evening.It was absolutely low tide and was surprised to see the size of the tree that was partly submerged in Full tide when I arrived here yesterday morning." Tide and Time waits for none ".Met Pastor Andrew.Blah of Meghalaya origin settled in Garacharma Basthi of Port Blair belonging to the " Church of God", a protestant branch of Christianity. He had come with his family and a few church goers for a picnic.Unlike Catholic priests in Protestant branch of Christianity the priests( Pastors) can get married and have a family.After a brief conversation with Pastor Andrew.Blah decided to enter the forest to while away my time as walking 3.2.km to Mundapahad beach was not worth the effort.
While walking on the road a local stall vendor decided to give me a lift on his scooter and honestly it was one of the most daredevil 3.2 Km ride I have experienced in a long time.MotoGP riders Casey.Stoner and Valentino Rosi would agree to my comment.The narrow road from Chidyatapu to Mundapahad beach had crater holes and steep descents and upward inclines as it was through a hillock.Finally reached the beach and was disappointed at the dangerous effort I took to reach this Southernmost tip of the South Andaman Island.Beach was definitely not very good for swimming as it had rocks at certain places between the beach sand which stood exposed at Low tide.A Board warning against swimming prominently displayed as crocodile had been sighted in the vicinity.
Entire beaches around Port Blair in South Andamans had been closed reminding me of the movie " Jaws".Why this much hysteria and panic when no human was attacked but just sightings? Couldn't " Nets " be put to encircle a particular are of a beach for swimmers ?
Walked along the length of the beach and came across a small creek waterway that had a wooden bridge for crossing across the narrow waterway.This could be crocodile residence if at all there were crocodiles or a crocodile in the vicinity of this beach.My biggest worry was now getting back to Chidyatapu Beach as everyone who comes here either does by private vehicle or hired vehicles as walking 3.2 Km twice unless a young trekker is torture and not adventure.Approached rickshaw drivers but they said they were all prebooked and finally requested the driver of a bus load of local Muslim tourists on a picnic to give me a lift.He obliged and took a lift on a bus packed with mostly women and young children returning home after a grand picnic at Mundapahad beach as Sunday is a public holiday in Andamans.While coming to Mundapahad beach had experienced a daredevil scooter ride and now while returning back saw the skills of this young driver tested to the maximum while driving through this narrow hill road where it was difficult for two cars to cross each other in opposite directions let alone a large bus.Truth is stranger than fiction and a F1 driver would be amazed at the skill of this bus driver on a real dangerous road with heavy tourist traffic.Finally made it to Chidyatapu Beach and on alighting had a coconut drink from Anand.Rao's stall.Weather had changed and a dark cloud hung over in the sky and hence complete Sunset was not visible.That's the luck of wildlife spotting as well as natural phenomenon and so had to be happy with my unforgettable view of Sunset at " Parrot Island" in Baratang.After the Sunset view it quickly became dark and at 1715 hrs boarded the " Go Go A/C bus" to Aberdeen with the bus ticket being Rs 60, excellent luxury travel .
Alighted near " Clock Tower" and walked the distance to my lodge.Decided to explore the " Bar circuit" of Aberdeen and on inquiry was told that Andamans had numerous bars.Made my way to the nearest bar in the vicinity and came across " Royal Bar" situated next to " Hotel Ramnivas Restaurant" and relaxed with a " Kingfisher beer" costing Rs 250 .A Crowded bar that was screening the " India- England" one day World cup match and as I sipped my beer was thrilled watching India on a winning wicket.Hindi was the common language of communication in this house- full bar that served all brands of liquor and strangely throughout my stay in Andamans never ever heard a local speaking in English language.Even among the tourists it was mostly regional language or Hindi.At the " CELLULAR JAIL" the English language " Sound and light" show was cancelled and now totally in Hindi due to lack of audience for the English language shows.Is the English language gradually fading in India or am I being too paranoid of a language I love and think with although not my mother tongue.Excellent dinner with the fish prepared in Bengali style with thick masala and no coconut flavour as we do in South India.Travel educates.The bill amounted to Rs 390 and either I am out of touch with inflation or food prices in restaurants of Andamans are expensive.Had a normal 4 hrs sleep.
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| View of Chidyatapu Beach at Low Tide. Not fit for swimming at " High Tide". Not a sand beach. |
While walking on the road a local stall vendor decided to give me a lift on his scooter and honestly it was one of the most daredevil 3.2 Km ride I have experienced in a long time.MotoGP riders Casey.Stoner and Valentino Rosi would agree to my comment.The narrow road from Chidyatapu to Mundapahad beach had crater holes and steep descents and upward inclines as it was through a hillock.Finally reached the beach and was disappointed at the dangerous effort I took to reach this Southernmost tip of the South Andaman Island.Beach was definitely not very good for swimming as it had rocks at certain places between the beach sand which stood exposed at Low tide.A Board warning against swimming prominently displayed as crocodile had been sighted in the vicinity.
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| Mundapahad Beach at " Low Tide". Good for swimming at high tide but due to " CROCODILE SIGHTING " swimming was banned. |
Entire beaches around Port Blair in South Andamans had been closed reminding me of the movie " Jaws".Why this much hysteria and panic when no human was attacked but just sightings? Couldn't " Nets " be put to encircle a particular are of a beach for swimmers ?
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| Crossing a narrow creek at Mundapahad Beach. This narrow creek with mangrove forest could be a locale of a Crocodile. |
Walked along the length of the beach and came across a small creek waterway that had a wooden bridge for crossing across the narrow waterway.This could be crocodile residence if at all there were crocodiles or a crocodile in the vicinity of this beach.My biggest worry was now getting back to Chidyatapu Beach as everyone who comes here either does by private vehicle or hired vehicles as walking 3.2 Km twice unless a young trekker is torture and not adventure.Approached rickshaw drivers but they said they were all prebooked and finally requested the driver of a bus load of local Muslim tourists on a picnic to give me a lift.He obliged and took a lift on a bus packed with mostly women and young children returning home after a grand picnic at Mundapahad beach as Sunday is a public holiday in Andamans.While coming to Mundapahad beach had experienced a daredevil scooter ride and now while returning back saw the skills of this young driver tested to the maximum while driving through this narrow hill road where it was difficult for two cars to cross each other in opposite directions let alone a large bus.Truth is stranger than fiction and a F1 driver would be amazed at the skill of this bus driver on a real dangerous road with heavy tourist traffic.Finally made it to Chidyatapu Beach and on alighting had a coconut drink from Anand.Rao's stall.Weather had changed and a dark cloud hung over in the sky and hence complete Sunset was not visible.That's the luck of wildlife spotting as well as natural phenomenon and so had to be happy with my unforgettable view of Sunset at " Parrot Island" in Baratang.After the Sunset view it quickly became dark and at 1715 hrs boarded the " Go Go A/C bus" to Aberdeen with the bus ticket being Rs 60, excellent luxury travel .
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| This tree on Chidyatapu Beach gets submerged till it's lower branches during High Tide. " Time and Tide waits for None" |
Alighted near " Clock Tower" and walked the distance to my lodge.Decided to explore the " Bar circuit" of Aberdeen and on inquiry was told that Andamans had numerous bars.Made my way to the nearest bar in the vicinity and came across " Royal Bar" situated next to " Hotel Ramnivas Restaurant" and relaxed with a " Kingfisher beer" costing Rs 250 .A Crowded bar that was screening the " India- England" one day World cup match and as I sipped my beer was thrilled watching India on a winning wicket.Hindi was the common language of communication in this house- full bar that served all brands of liquor and strangely throughout my stay in Andamans never ever heard a local speaking in English language.Even among the tourists it was mostly regional language or Hindi.At the " CELLULAR JAIL" the English language " Sound and light" show was cancelled and now totally in Hindi due to lack of audience for the English language shows.Is the English language gradually fading in India or am I being too paranoid of a language I love and think with although not my mother tongue.Excellent dinner with the fish prepared in Bengali style with thick masala and no coconut flavour as we do in South India.Travel educates.The bill amounted to Rs 390 and either I am out of touch with inflation or food prices in restaurants of Andamans are expensive.Had a normal 4 hrs sleep.
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| A cup of tea at Mohanpura Port Blair Fish Market. |
Monday(30/10/2023):- At 0630 hrs made my way to the " Tamil Dhaba" next to my first hotel residence in Babu Lane for early morning tea and wada/ chutney.I liked their coconut chutney ,excellent compared to other vegetarian restaurants although this was a street side dhaba.From Babu Lane walked the short distance to Mohanpura fish market situated further down the ST Bus terminus.At 0700 hrs in the morning it was business as usual in the fish market.If not into " Share Market Investments" would have definitely given a try in the fishing business as a " Wholesale dealer/ Trawler management " post retirement from shipping employment.Love the sea and in fact decades of purchasing fish has kept me active as " Share Market" profession is the most physically idle profession where by just sleeping in bed you can earn or lose money let alone drive or travel by public transport to place of office in the congestion and traffic of Mumbai city. Returned back to " Azad Lodge", a typical large middle class lodge also having family rooms with T.V . After changing to my casual swim wear clothes headed to Mohanpura ST Bus stand and boarded the " Go Go Tourist bus No 2" to Corbyn Cove Beach which would first go to Garacharma Town of Port Blair and on the return trip pass through Corbyn Cove Beach. The driver was my guide explaining me the important localities as we drove along the road and to my goodluck it was early in the morning and I was the only passenger as this bus was expensive compared to normal buses.
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| The beautiful scenic causeway drive to Corbyn Cove Beach in Port Blair. Reminded me of World class " Chapman's Peak Drive" in Cape Town in South Africa. |
A " Tourist pass " costing Rs 150 allowed the ticket holder to travel throughout the day on various routes of the " Go Go Buses" which was similar to " Hop On/ Hop Off" buses found in most city's across the Globe but on a smaller rustic scale.Hence I purchased the ticket as today my intention was travelling by bus to various localities of Port Blair.It was my second last day in Port Blair and having travelled the length and breadth of Port Blair by common A/ C buses was familiar with the major city routes and names.First passed through " Middle point" town where " I.C.I.C.I" and other private banks have a branch with " ATM" facilities.Otherwise the only ATM booths in Aberdeen locality are of " S.B.I" bank which can also be utilized by holders of ATM cards of other Govt banks.After Middle Point was Junglighat town and then the landmark " Veer Savarkar International Airport " .
After crossing the International airport and attached Naval air station passed alongside Bathu Basti Junction and finally reached Garacharma Town. .From Garacharma headed back towards Mohanpura depot passing alongside Corbyn Cove Beach where I alighted for my dip in the sea." JAWS",the movie seems to have inspired " ANDAMAN CROCODILE" sea safety precautions and hence all beaches in the vicinity of Port Blair was shut for public swimming.
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| Entrance gate to Jawaharlal Nehru Rajkeeya Mahavidyalaya .Jawaharlal Nehru Rajkeeya Mahavidyalaya, Port Blair, established in 1967, is the oldest college in Port Blair, in the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, India. It offers undergraduate and postgraduate courses in science, arts and commerce and is affiliated to Pondicherry University. |
Bizarrely " Water Sports" like " Parasailing" was allowed as also " Jet Ski" boats for tourists but no swimming .Walked to the end of the beach and had a dip outside the beach boundary where I spotted a fisherman wading in water.I just wanted to do few minutes of my regular " AQUA YOGA" , nothing more or nothing less.Took a photo next to a " Crocodile warning signpost" as it's not everyday in life a person sees such sign boards on a beach.
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| At Corbyn Cove Beach Had a dip in the sea outside the beach jurisdiction. Did my normal " Aqua yoga" in the shallow waters. Because of a crocodile sighting all beaches in Port Blair was closed for swimming. |
As far as my theoretical knowledge goes unlike sharks which attack in shallow waters a crocodile will never swim into a crowded beach to seize its prey a la " JAWS" style movie.Crocodile is a ambush predator totally different from a shark in terms of attacking and killing its prey.Sherlock.Holmes would have scratched his head on solving the Port Blair closure of beaches mystery due to crocodile sightings.After my short " Aqua Yoga" exercise waded out of the sea and after dressing up walked the short distance to the entrance and in the nick of time boarded the " Go Go Bus" to Aberdeen. Alighted near the Clock Tower and walked the short distance to my lodge.Got dressed into formal attire and had a early lunch of " Mutton Biryani" at Milan Hotel.On arrival at Mohanpura bus terminus inquired about the " Go Go" bus to Chidyatapu and was told to board the local A/ C bus and later on the route board any " Go Go " bus. On boarding the bus and as it began its journey the conductor told me the " Go Go" bus ticket was invalid in normal A/C buses.Alighted the bus at " Middle point" and was frustrated at the long wait for the " Go Go" bus.Finally " Go Go bus No 4" did arrive and it was nice plush air conditioned sightseeing across the prominent locales of Port Blair especially along the causeway road after Corbyn Cove Beach.Drove past landmark Sinclair Hotel built on a small hill facing the sea past the " Hornbill Nest resort" and landmark " Flag Point" onto Marina Plaza. Was finally at Mohanpura ST Bus terminus with the afternoon Sun at its brightest.For the first time in my life saw the electrical charging of the electric " Go Go" bus and honestly the common public transport in Port Blair was excellent and if not for buses my Solo travel of Andamans would have not been accomplished as hiring taxi's or autorickshaw is expensive and for a retiree now a " Digital Nomad" with ample time to spare a total waste of money.
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| At Chidyatapu Beach came across this discarded fishing net. If discarded in sea such nets are a death trap for Turtles and other fish species that get entangled in such Nets and Drown. |
Finally boarded the 1430 bus which was late and began the long journey to Chidyatapu, my third bus expedition to this unique named locale of South Andamans.There was a young couple from Patna with their young children and a elderly family from Nagpur travelling on the same bus.Almost a local Hindi speaking Andamanese after 14 days in Andaman Island's I was their partial guide to certain queries regarding Chidyatapu. At 1545 we finally arrived at Chidyatapu and being a Monday the " Chidyatapu Biological Park " was closed.Headed to the beach which had a large crowd and was hoping that on my second attempt would see Sunset in Andamans before departure to Mumbai.The Weather God's were in favour of the tourists and got to view a beautiful Sunset from Chidyatapu Beach. After observing Sunset walked to our wating bus and at 1700 hrs departed for Mohanpura ST Bus terminus. I had done the same route yesterday and never got bored of the 4 kms causeway drive from Corbyn Cove Beach to Marina Park. Was finally at our bus terminus and made a brief visit to " Rathnam Market" to say goodbye to " Peter" the cat as well as buy bananas from owner Mr M.Boominathan, a simpleton in appearance but aren't appearances deceptive.In Mumbai some of the wholesale vegetable shop owners could give a small scale Industrialist clad in 3- piece suit a run for their money. Ahoy ! Poor " Peter" the cat was woken from his deep slumber , a sight I have never seen in any vegetable market .Also the bananas grown on Andaman Island's is different from bananas grown on mainland India.M.Boominathan gave me green bananas which I presumed were raw but he corrected my doubts saying it was ripe bananas.
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| The " LAST SUNSET ON ANDAMAN ISLAND'S " at Chidyatapu Beach in Port Blair.Was 2nd time lucky as yesterday the clouds obstructed the view of the Sunset. |
On arrival in my room tasted a banana and it was excellent, different in taste and appearance to common green bananas grown in mainland India. Unforgettable " Peter, the cat".
After refreshing myself in my room walked out of the lodge towards " Clock Tower" onto the road leading to Police Gurudwara , the Sikh Shrine and dinner was " Massala Dossa" at vegetarian Hotel Kattabboman situated next to landmark " Hotel Ananda".After dinner walked my way back towards the lodge and dessert was " Royal Choco chops" Falooda at adda "Sagar Cool Bar". Back in the lodge as usual busy updating my day's experiences.
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| Veer Savarkar International Airport . Flight back home to mumbai via a transit at Kolkata Airport. |
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| Landmark " Police Gurudwara " near Clock Tower at Aberdeen Bazaar. |
Tuesday(31/10/2023) Departure Port Blair and arrival Mumbai :- All good or bad things always come to a end and a excellent 15 days of discovering Andaman Island's had come to a end.It had rained overnight and early morning cup of chai with " Wada/ chutney" was at the Tamil Dhaba in Babu Lane.Next walked upto " Ananda restaurant" and had a second breakfast of " Idli/ Chutney" at " Hotel Kattabboman " situated next door to "Ananda Restaurant".The Sikh " Police Gurudwara" situated opposite the police station is the landmark of this locality of Aberdeen.Relaxed in my room and packed my luggage.At 0845 hrs bid adieu to my lodge and walked the short distance to Mohanpura ST Bus stand.Was at the right place at the right time and in time to board " Go Go Bus No 1" to airport, being the only passenger in the plush A/ C bus.Public transport travel in Andamans is excellent and seems to be subsidized in Port Blair.Ticket fare was only Rs 30 in comparison to the Rs 250 i paid for the ambassador taxi for the same distance on arrival at Port Blair. At 0900 hrs was dropped outside the main entrance gate of Veer Savarkar International Airport in the plush A/C bus. From the gate it was a long walk to the departure Terminal and on entering was in the confines of a excellent A/ C airport.Check-in counter opened at 1000 hrs and after collecting my boarding passes walked past security check and onto boarding " Gate No 5" Departure Lounge.Excellent airport with good A/C and seating accommodation for passengers.
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| My area of residence in prime downtown Port Blair locality of Aberdeen Bazaar. .The landmark temple is Sri Lakshmi Vinayagar temple, a Tamilian origin temple.Looking at the photograph to to the right side of the road is Babu Lane and my first residence "Citi Heart" on arrival in Port Blair. The road on left side of the temple is main Aberdeen Bazaar Road and my second residence at "Azad Lodge" after shifting from "Citi Heart" hotel.Prime shopping locality and crowded during peak evening hours. |
At 1125 boarded "6E6396 " Indigo A 320 plane and for the first time in my life of air travel was seated on " 1C" , the first seat from the pilots cockpit in the plane next to main entrance.Departure was prompt on time and landed in Kolkata at 1355 hrs.
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| My last ride on the plush A/C tourist " Go Go Electric bus" to the airport. |
Believe it or not that I was the first passenger to step out of the plane once the front door was open, a first in my decades of air travel.Made my way to the transfer terminal of domestic airlines and as usual had to undergo the usual security check.After security made my way to " Gate 101" and was surprised to see the domestic section packed with traveller's like a railway station.Boarding of " 6E 6206 " Indigo A321 plane was prompt at 1515 hrs and bizarrely I was now on the 3rd last row from the tail end of the plane on window seat " No 37 F".A pleasant flight and approaching Mumbai got to view the bizarre twilight zone in the sky.At 1900 hrs landed in Mumbai and made my exit from the tail end gangway onto the plush " Chatrapati Shivaji Terminal T2 ".Hired a ordinary cab for Rs 500 and could feel the Mumbai heat after a pleasant 15 days stay at 26*c average temp and inconsistent rain although the leech bites and mosquito menace reduced my normal 4 hrs sleep.The Andamans travel was a great game changer on my views and living as I got to view the primitive Jarawa tribe in virgin tropical deciduous rain forest artificially preserved by human borders while existing alongside 21st century technology city living .How long could this sort of artificial isolation last or how could it be preserved is a multi crore question for Politicians and Anthropologists.
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| Seated on " 1 C " , the first seat in the plane on "Port Blair - Kolkata " flight.Later after transit in Kolkata flew home to Mumbai. |
Will the Indigenous primitive tribes of the Andamans face extinction due to inbreeding or will they gradually get diluted and totally lose their tribal culture and traditional way of living as they embrace modernization and intermarriage outside their tribe into normal Indian society ? Eerily resembles the " Red Indians " saga of America and I was lucky to get a fleeting glimpse of a modern Jarawa tribal dressed in clothes sitting on the forest pathway of the Andaman NH4 highway as our bus passed alongside.India is really a blessed country having all the World's geographical and climatic regions within a single country.The average Indian doesn't require foreign travel to experience various climates and topographical regions of the World.
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